Bandhavgarh Fort- Bounty in the Ruins

chillibreeze writer — Uday

Nestled among the undulating mountains of the Vindhyan Ranges in Central India north of the Narmada River, lies Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve, a little haven for wilderness.

Bandhavgarh is India’s prime tiger habitat of dense pristine forests and rich game like the Sambhar, Wild Boar and the ubiquitous Spotted Deer. It also boasts ruins of ancient but rich civilization that once thrived in its womb.

Of Myths, Gods and Battles lost and won…

On the top of a lofty mountain are the ruins of the majestic Bandhavgarh Fort (from which the Park derives its name), a monument that once stood proud in the desolate wilderness. People still talk of the hidden treasures and the spirits of the dead that guard the fort from evil eyes. The fort that dates back to almost 2000 years is now history in ruins. It is mentioned in ancient Hindu scriptures as a fort gifted by Lord Ram to his dearest brother Laxman. Hence the name (Bandhav means brother in Hindi).

Amidst scattered ruins of archeological wonders-arches, temples, idols, stables-tall prairie grasses and the stately stands, thrive. The landscape is quaint, esoteric.

Standing on the steep edge of the mountain one gets a captivating view of the surrounding forest-clad hillocks that shape the reserve and the valleys and rivers that snake through them. Silence rules, overcome at times by the faint rustle in the bushes - a tiger moving stealthily across on a jungle patrol - or the echo of an eagle’s resounding call from the sky above. Throughout the steep angular climb, there are man made caves carved in the walls of the mountain. The caves once acted as guard posts, now they support colonies of bats and on a rare instance act as refuge for a tigress with cubs.

An ancient “jamun” (a berry) grove shelters the Ram Janki Temple on the cliff; the temple is perhaps as old as the fort itself. The Royal Priest, now beggared by circumstances still dutifully offers service, as did his ancestors for centuries bygone. The rock statues of Lord Vishnu in zoomorphic form are as intriguing as they are enchanting. The mountain is full of ruins of temples devoted to various Hindu deities scattered along its wide expanse. The large impressive man made tanks speak of man’s inherent survival skills.

On the steep climb up to the fort is the statue of the Reclining Vishnu or "Shesh Shaiyya”. Reclining imposingly on a stone platform adjacent to a man made pool, amidst tropical greenery, it is an artistic wonder carved out of a single rock and almost 20 feet in length. Ferns and flowery shrubs flourish in the moist surroundings and their sweet scent lingers in the air. All around are dense groves of tall trees, which filter the strong rays of the noon Sun. The cool surroundings and the shade at Shesh Shaiyya, provide succor to tired travelers and forest guards on elephant back. The place offers an escape from the heat of the simmering summer sun, as it must have in the past to the battle worn soldiers and their horses. At a tiny perennial spring nearby the pool, gurgling, and crystal clear water adorns the landscape. The water is cool, refreshing, and Godsend at those imposing heights. The scenario is fairy tale like.

Humans once inhabited the fort complex in the heydays of the many dynasties that ruled over it, one after the other, for centuries. The Kalchuris, Chandelas, Baghels and many more took there turns to rule over the once proud fort. Battle-worn and scarred, the ruins now stand as a silent testimonial to the turbulent past hidden in the rubble.

A refuge in the wilderness

Today, the Tiger, rules over its domain from the dizzy heights of this ancient fort. The elusive beast leaves his trail all around especially on the soft sand of the jungle roads. The Kingdom now belongs to him and he rules over it like a proud King.

At the entrance to the fort is a massive arch of stone its wooden doors enormous, surrounded by small chattris that now harbor colonies of bats. The structure exhibits admirable work of masonry and exquisitely carved patterns decorate its walls. It stands imposingly among the ruins and the rubble. All the way up to the fort, it is a steep climb. A dilapidated metal road that once carried the Maharaja’s Jeep still finds itself in use by the enthusiastic tourist and the wild denizens.

The fort is the property of the erstwhile Maharaja of Rewa - Martand Singh. He belongs to the last dynasty that ruled the fort - The Baghelas.
Charanganga, a perennial river is said to originate from one of the large tank in the premises of the fort. A major life support system, it plays a vital role in the complex ecosystem of this little paradise. The river seeps in through the folds of the mountain on its steep descent to the swampy grasslands below. On its way through the cliff it emerges as a tiny spring here and there enlivening the landscape.

Charanganga supports a myriad web of life as it traverses through dense forests of Sal and Bamboo, swampy grasslands, and ravines on its way out to the human civilizations that have perished and resettled on its bank through the passage of history.

Fact File:

A prior permission to visit the fort is required from the Divisional Forest Office based in Umaria 32kms from Bandhavgarh. Umaria is 80 kms away from Katni, which is accessible from Delhi by rail.
Jabalpur the nearest airport is 200 kms by road. Bandhavgarh has many resorts owned privately, offering various packages to tourists. The best season for big game viewing is summer.

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Bandhavgarh Fort- Bounty in the Ruins

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