For Darjeeling, with more than its share of magnificent vistas and striking scenery, the name ‘Dorje Ling’ which means ‘Place of the Thunderbolt’, is particularly apt. The views of Mount Everest and Khangchendzonga, the amazing flora and fauna, the surging rivers, and the unforgettable sunrises are all part of the fantastic collage that is Darjeeling.
In the late 1800s the British started a sanatorium for their people, up in the hills here. Darjeeling has changed little since then. To this day this town on the edge of a mountain retains its timeless quality. To visit Darjeeling is to enter a fairytale world: Beautiful people, hills carpeted in green, frothy rivers, colorful flora, vibrant multi religious community, and the famed ‘Toy train’.
Sun Worshipping
A day in Darjeeling typically begins by watching the sunrise from the vantage point of Tiger Hills. Located about 11 kilometers from the town, it starts attracting visitors as early as 4 AM. People elbow each other to watch what is a mundane event else where. You wait with bated breath as Nature’s drama unfolds. The grey sky is initially splattered with shades of gold. Then the red ball of fire starts its ascent from between the mountains. The play of colors, drawn on the huge canvas of sky, cannot be imitated or copied, at least not in its entire glory and beauty. The sheer poetry of the sun against the back drop of majestic Mount Everest and Khangchendzonga leaves you feeling small and humble. The sky goes through myriad hues; grey, orange, golden, and blue. The mountains reflect the sky. No picture or description can reproduce that magnificent event. You head back to your hotel, with a thankful to the Creator for being there and letting you be a part of this wonderful experience.
The Great Outdoors
You do not have to really go out and look for physical activity in Darjeeling. Going from one part of the town to the other on foot, would ensure that you are never in want of physical exercise. The town bustles around with tourists of all descriptions and vehicles of all makes. A walk along the Mall, the hub of the town, is invigorating, not only because of the wafting aromas of all categories of cuisine, but also for the sheer colour and range of goods available. You will always see friendly locals politely smiling when your eyes meet theirs.
Apart from being acclaimed as one of the best hill resorts, Darjeeling is also a veritable paradise for trekkers and mountaineers. One of the famous routes is the Darjeeling-Sandakphu- Phalut route. White water rafting is also gaining a lot of popularity along the Rivers Teesta and Rangeet. If you are one who would like to tee off from one of the highest golf courses in the world, then Senchal Golf Course at a height of 8,150 feet is the place to be.
Multicultural and Multi-religious Darjeeling
Darjeeling's population of about 100,000 is made up of people of many races and religions, Gorkhas, Bhutias, Lepchas and Sherpas. Yolmos and migrants from the plains live harmoniously. The favorite past time of locals on a nice sunny day is to come out in numbers and stroll and laze in the town square.
In and around Darjeeling there are important and interesting Tibetan monasteries. The oldest one is called Yiga Choling Monastery, which enshrines an image of the ‘Coming Buddha’ and belongs to the Gelugpa sect.
Bringing Out the Child in You
A visit to Darjeeling is incomplete without a ride on the Toy Train of Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR). Made into a symbol of Romance in the Bollywood hits of the 1970s, the miniature train is endearing to both children and adults. The steam engine Toy Train covers a distance of 88 kilometers between Darjeeling and New Jalpaiguri station. This train has been given heritage status by UNESCO. The fascinating narrow gauge steam engine train loops through sections which are considered engineering marvels even today. Of particular interest is the Batasia loop, in which the track makes a figure of eight, and provides a beautiful view of the city against the backdrop of Khangchendzonga.
Scaling New Heights
The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute was founded in 1954 after the Historic conquest of Mount Everest on 29th May, 1953, by Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and Sir Edmund Hillary. The Institute was formed with the idea of imparting mountaineering skills to all enthusiasts and professionals wanting to excel in that field. The institute houses a rare collection of mementos from various Everest expeditions. One of the valued objects on display is a letter by George Mallory, the British climber who was lost during the Everest expedition, whose body was found only a few years back.
The Hills Are Alive with the Sound of Children
Darjeeling is home to many prestigious boarding schools like St Michael’s School for girls and St Paul’s School for boys. Both are famous Anglican Church schools and once catered primarily to the children of parents belonging to the Church of England, who preferred these schools to the Catholic ones in the region.
Flora and Fauna
Lloyds Botanical Garden is a colorful garden situated just below the market. This garden has an extensive collection of rhododendrons, magnolias, orchids and vegetation exclusive to the Himalayas. The Himalayan Zoological Park and Snow Leopard Breeding Centre are other attractions with the former being the only place in India where one gets to the Siberian Tiger, Himalayan Black Bear and Barking Deer. The spacious well maintained zoo is a treat to all wild life enthusiasts. The only one of its kind, the Himalayan Snow Leopard Breeding Center is a success story of numerous zoologists who have achieved the near impossible feat.
Famous Brew
Tea from Darjeeling is what champagne from France is to connoisseurs. “Give me a platter of choice finnan haddie, freshly cooked in its bath of water and milk, add melted butter, a slice or two of hot toast, a pot of steaming Darjeeling tea, and you may tell the butler to dispense with the caviar, truffles and nightingales' tongues” said Craig Claiborne, the New York Times food critic.
The story of Darjeeling tea started some 150 years ago when a Dr. Campbell, a civil surgeon, planted tea seeds in his garden at Beechwood, Darjeeling, 7000 feet above sea level, as an experiment. The rest is history. Darjeeling is surrounded by numerous hills whose surfaces are adorned by tea bushes which give a beautifully manicured lawn like appearance. The water, nature of soil and the altitude itself contribute to the uniqueness of the local brew.
It was not easy to peel away from the magic of the “Queen of Hill stations” and I returned home determined to go back soon!
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