Chennai in a Day

chillibreeze writer — Shruti Viswanathan

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Situated at the southern tip of the subcontinent, the 400 year old city of Chennai (Madras) is the capital of the state of Tamil Nadu. Possibly the most conservative of all of India’s metropolises, Chennai is a fascinating confluence of vibrant youngsters raised in a booming global economy and the comforts associated with it and traditional, old school mamas and mamis who cling to their conservative cloak. The co-existence of two such starkly different cultures (and many shades of grey in between) coupled with a rich cultural heritage, makes for an infinitely fascinating and, at times, intensely frustrating city.

If you are visiting the city for just a day, you can choose to spend a hectic day running around and taking in all the sights or relax and indulge in the laidback culture of the city. I suggest that you do a little of both. This is a fairly comprehensive guide to the city in 24 hours.

Things to do in Chennai
Chennai is a city that gets up remarkably early. If you are up at 4:30 am and take a quick walk, you’ll be surprised at the amount of activity around you. Roadside breakfast shops serve bleary eyed customers, people on their early morning walks bounce along, and tiny temples with monstrous speakers call to the pious.

For a true feel of the city, I recommend that you visit the Kapaleeshwar temple in Mylapore. Dedicated to Lord Siva and the goddess Parvati, the most striking feature of the temple is the enormous tank that surrounds it. Built in the seventh century B.C. by the Pallava kings, this is the oldest temple in Chennai (given that every street in Chennai is likely to have at least one temple, this is quite a feat). While the gopuram here cannot rival the grander temples in Thanjavur or Madurai, the hustle and bustle of the city gives this temple a unique charm.

Eating in Chennai
Once you have paid your respects at the temple however, it’s time to worship the gastronomical gods. Head over to the Karpagambal Mess. Situated close to the temple, and named after it too, this mess embodies the no-nonsense, lip smacking good food found in many hole-in-the-wall restaurants across Chennai. I recommend that you try the pongal here. This lightly spiced rice porridge-esque dish is immensely popular all across Tamil Nadu and Karpagambal Mess produces one of its finest samples. You can also try the keera vadai, a spinach-flavored fried snack which is slightly spicy. Those with a sweet tooth should try the carrot halwa. Podi dosas are fast favorites amongst regulars too. Be warned that the ambiance of the place leave much to be desired but the food more than makes up for it.

After that heavy meal, head over to the Marina Beach for a relaxing stroll. Stretching over 13km, this beach is amongst the longest city beaches. Sadly, the Marina beach is very polluted and overcrowded on most evenings. Plastic bags are littered all over the place, despite the clean-up efforts of the government and ubiquitous notices.

I suggest that you take a relaxed walk along Beach Road. Some of the oldest buildings in Chennai were built here and it is a pleasure to see the old-world colonial architecture. Various educational and government institutions are housed in these mammoth Victorian structures. Also look out for the Victoria War memorial and the various commemorative statues along the beach front. The road makes for a wonderful juxtaposition of colonial and modern Madras and I always come away with a wonderful sense of history. More samples of colonial architecture can be found in Georgetown which was the first British settlement in Madras. The Madras High Court is a lovely example of the architecture of the era.

Chennai culture
To truly get a feel of Chennai, it is imperative that you experience some classical music and dance. All Chennaites proudly wave its cultural banner and rightfully so. Pop in on any day of the year and you are bound to find a Carnatic music or dance recital in some part of the city. Check through the listings in The Hindu to find one on your date of travel. If you happen to visit in December during the music season, then you will find the who’s who of Carnatic music converging on the city. Most concerts don’t charge an entry fee.

Shopping in Chennai
If you feel like shopping and bracing the crowds, visit Pondy Bazaar in T.Nagar. This crowded market area in Chennai houses everything: from street vendors selling everything under the sun to air-conditioned stores housing international brands. Drive a hard bargain on the streets and you will find things you need (and don’t need) at very cheap prices.

After that, you will definitely want to kick back and have a relaxing dinner. There are a host of options to choose from: Iranian, Greek, Italian, and Thai amongst others. I recommend a personal favorite: In Seoul. This Korean gem is located on T.T.K Road near the Park Sheraton. Run and patronized by Koreans, this is the real deal. The food is fantastic, filling, and reasonably priced. It is also a great place to people watch and a true testament to Chennai’s cosmopolitan fabric.

A few survival tips:

a) Tamil is the official state language and the Tamils are fiercely proud of it. Speaking to auto drivers and vendors in Hindi is viewed with much hostility. You are better off speaking in English.

b) While Chennai has a fairly well connected public transport system, autos are the easiest way of getting around if you are new to the city. Chennai auto drivers are infamous for quoting sky-high rates. Always bargain and accept that you will be fleeced a little.

c) The weather in Chennai is punishing during the summer. Plan your activities accordingly.

d) Large parts of Chennai are conservative. While skirts, jeans and other types of western clothing are very common, avoid wearing very revealing clothing. It will make you and the locals uncomfortable.

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Chillibreeze's disclaimer: This is a contributed article and was published on Chillibreeze in January, 2011. The views and opinions expressed in this article are those of the author(s) and do not reflect the views of Chillibreeze as a company. Chillibreeze has a strict anti-plagiarism policy. Please contact us to report any copyright issues related to this article. The relevance of the facts and figures cited (if any) could change after a period of time.

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—About our writer:

Shruti Viswanathan graduated from the National Law School of India University, India’s premier law school, in 2010. She currently works in the development finance sector. Shruti is a travel enthusiast and a well recognized food critic. She has been freelance writing for the past year and a half. In this short time, Shruti has written for lifestyle magazines, national newspapers and websites in Bangalore and Chennai. She is currently based in Chennai.

Chennai in a Day

chillibreeze writer — Shruti Viswanathan

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