Meet Bob: A Single American Expat Living in Bangalore

chillibreeze writer — Bob Waldron

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I arrived in Bangalore India just over three months ago, a single 49 year old male expat, with a lot of ideas about what this country would be like and how I would adapt to life in India. I was fortunate to have a bit of cultural training; that among other things predicted how I might react to a very different culture. The statistics claim I would initially be ecstatic after arriving; followed by a steady decline over the next month or so to a bottom where I would want desperately to escape back to my comfortable American life. Finally there would be a slow acceptance of my situation and by around 6 months I would actually start to enjoy, appreciate, and begin to thrive in the new culture. So at this point I can definitely say I've bounced off the bottom of being home sick and I'm slowly beginning to enjoying my new Indian culture.

The hardest part I've found with living in Bangalore is staying healthy. I'm normally quite resistant to bugs but in three months here I've had a cough and head cold, a miserable week and a half of diarrhea with several more mini-bouts, and a fungal ear infection, the latter I'm still recovering from. There is life everywhere in India and we look like hosts to some of it. Closely following health concerns are dealing with every-day life in India like transportation, food shopping, and negotiating every minor activity with communication and cultural differences making encounters always a challenge.

I have a transportation dilemma going on right now that is representative of the twists and turns to every thing you try and do here. There is an electrical short on my Enfield Bullet bike which in itself is a problem but only part of the issue here. The headlight switch creates a direct short to ground and pegs the ammeter as a discharge and eventually blows the bike fuse. Not having a headlight makes night driving a bit more hazardous so I've been riding the autos to work to avoid any chance of night driving.

The autos-rickshaws are convenient and reasonably priced but there is always a twist coming your way. Earlier this week the auto driver started out on course for the office, winding through some of the back streets that I normally take on the bike. He comes to the most likely connecting street to Bannerghatta road but he misses the turn. I tell him clearly where we are headed and he nods as if he is just avoiding some traffic but then he missed the final shortcut, that I knew of, resulting in just about doubling the commute. This is a typical ploy for the auto drivers as they can collect a bigger fare by taking the long way around to your destination. He definitely felt my annoyance as we negotiated a lower fare than the meter indicated when we arrived at the office.

You are at the mercy of auto drivers when you venture into an unfamiliar part of town. As soon as they think you don't know your directions the route can magically get longer. Sometimes I'm able to catch and redirect them and other times I get an unexpected ride. Occasionally the change of scenery and a different route is refreshing and a way to explore new parts of town. I have become much more comfortable with the streets of Bangalore, slowly constructing a mental map of the roadways, bus stands, and many of the traffic circles that are used as landmarks. So for the most part I have a pretty good sense of direction in town and know where the auto drivers are taking me. I have been lost on the streets a couple of times. One tactic is to stay aware of direction and turn onto progressively busier streets. You'll eventually come across a sign or a landmark you recognize and can hunt your way home.

I used the auto the next day to get to work but was delayed leaving for home until after dark. This provides a different challenge with getting an auto ride. Bannerghatta Road in front of the office is usually gridlock traffic in the evenings with dust, pollution, and hazards coming at you from every direction. All the autos are filled as no one is being dropped off thus no auto available for a new fare. You end up standing along this miserable stretch of road for 10 minutes or so until an empty auto happens by. I picked a prime location that has better light and a pile of rubble that guards me from some of the more adventuresome traffic bouncing along the side road margins trying to make their own progress. People are everywhere, horns are honking and you are straining to see if the next auto is empty or not while trying to flag one of them down and trying to not get run over. The autos usually spot you first and start driving in your direction. When I finally catch a ride I slip on my pollution mask, slide low in the back center of the auto for good visibility and watch the circus go by.

Bob says, “I’m notorious at the office for being the only one to actually drive an auto.”

A few days of riding autos and I was ready to bike to work only to be again stuck at the office until after dark. The traffic was heavy but on this trip I don't have my headlight due to the electrical short. I debated taking an auto home as the bike should be safe overnight in the parking garage but decided to brave the traffic without my headlight as a significant portion of autos, bikes, and bicycles are not lit and this doesn't seem to stop them. I try to blend in and quite surprise myself merging into the traffic flow and bounce over curbs and weave my way between cars, rickshaws, carts, and bikes while giving my horn a workout with the chorus of other horns. In traffic there are plenty of headlights to warn you of most road hazards but when on a back street the roadway gets pretty dark. I've hit a couple of unforeseen potholes, though nothing major, and dodged a number of dogs as they come more alive in late evenings. People are always materializing out of the dark so going slow is the key. Sometimes I long for the easy 12 minute commutes I used to have in Colorado, my big comfortable Chevy 4X4 truck rolling through the wide Fort Collins streets, finger tip steering, and the radio playing tunes.

Part of being single in Bangalore means I need to interact more with the culture as a social outlet rather than having the convenience of an American wife and kids at home. They would provide an escape from India each evening and a connection to my own culture. Although I long for American contacts, India is full of culture, interesting things to do, place to see, and where everything you do is an adventure.

Tonight I forayed out just after dark to 4 Block Jayanagar for dinner and do a little shopping. The auto ride is just over 2 km, Rs 10.5 (20 cents), but I give the driver Rs 15. This is the central market district and is alive with life Saturday evenings, all the shops and vendors are in full swing. I walk slowly down the street as I'm trying to take everything in, my head swiveling around trying looking at all the sights.

I walked past the Chinese restaurant that Reinke, my new German friend, and I visited last week. That's a good place to have a couple of beers and reasonably priced and tasty Chinese food. I had in mind tonight eating at Kadambam, south Indian food, and a busy little local restaurant. I've eaten there twice before with guys from the office and haven't suffered any digestive problems. I'm not sure what I ordered but was dished up what I was hoping for, a bowl of seasoned rice, legumes, nuts, and vegetables along with a cup of curd mixed with onion and other finely diced veggies. Sitting at a community table I wolfed down the meal for only Rs 16 (32 cents). The rice is quite tasty if you avoid the 5 - 6 red peppers and pick them out carefully. Curd or Dahi (yogurt) is a common topping for rice. Next door there is an ice cream shop, I go for a black current milkshake and am happier than the cat that ate the canary.

I wind my way down the street to the store where I'd purchased my mobile phone and buy a case and a hands free earpiece and mic. Everyone here has a mobile that they are constantly using whether in a meeting, in the car, riding a bike or in an elevator. I'm starting to see the benefits as it's about the most reliable form of communication around. I am adopting the habit as the phone can be a good connection to people you know and in case you need help. With the help of the internet a local Fort Collins Colorado phone call reaches my mobile phone in Bangalore India, sometimes I think technology is pretty cool. On the trip home I have to try 3 different auto drivers to find one willing to take me back to Sangum Circle near the flat, they often don't want to go your direction. Arriving at the flat, another Rs 15, and over to the fruit and vegetable stand for three fresh mangos as a late night snack.

There is a lot happening with the street life in India and that is where some very interesting sites are seen. Every auto ride is an adventure as you deal with many drivers having minimal English skills. Most of them tell me they married with several kids and live in the slums. Another lesson being learned is when any money changes hands you need to negotiate the price and be careful otherwise clever street merchants will put extra money in their pocket. I believe I'm still paying about 30 - 50% more than the average Indian for many things I buy on the street but I'm starting to zero in on the market value. Discounts are plentiful and fairly easy to obtain if you know the going rate, just be willing to walk away.

The best thing about India is that amazing adventure is outside your door a few footsteps away and any time you care to venture out. I am amazed at what can be loaded on a bicycle or carried on top of some ones head. There are cows standing in the street, wild dog packs, monkeys, bugs, and critters everywhere. And then all the people, the culture is diverse and time honored. Slowing down a little and taking in the Indian culture makes life very interesting. The expat experience is hard but the enriching experience is one for a lifetime.

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—About our writer:

Bob is an expatriate from Colorado, USA. He is presently working for LSI Logic India Private Limited starting a new micro electronic mask design shop.