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Delhi's Unique Heritage Sites
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Delhi is one of the few cities in the world where you can turn the corner in a slum and suddenly see the ruins of a beautiful mosque. Or you can walk in one of the city’s numerous parks and not even notice a dilapidated, crumbling tomb as you go past because there are so many of them! We accept our glorious heritage monuments with such nonchalance because we consider them a part and parcel of our city, as much as traffic jams and slums and rude eve teasers! We do not even realise that with the pollution and encroachments in Delhi, many of these will vanish and all that will be left are memories.
Near the Marriott Hotel in Saket in Delhi, there is a short muddy road next to a tiny mandir. If you are adventurous enough to venture down this mud path you enter the Khirki Masjid. A two-storied mosque built in the 14th century, it is a unique architectural marvel. It is divided into squares through a series of domes on the roof and columns on the ground floor. The delicately wrought beautiful latticed windows give this mosque its name. Some parts of this mosque are uncovered and there are open passages, which crisscross each other through the centre of the structure. The sunlight streaming in through these passages and through the latticed windows give this place a unique charm.
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Apart from the Nizammuddin Dargah in Delhi, which is well known and well visited, there are many other dargahs also. Near the Qutub Minar there is the very lovely and very peaceful tomb of Qutubddin Bakhtiyar Kaki. Hidden in the bylanes of Mehrauli, it is a marble structure with a rather garish roof. Women are allowed to look at the Dargah only through the jaalis of this monument, but even outside there is a pervading sense of peace and tranquillity. Few people come here, but those who do, go back with a sense of reverence towards the many saints, and members of royalty who are buried here.
Chandni Chowk is probably one of Delhi’s most crowded areas. It has streets and homes that go back many centuries. Every crowded lane can boast of having played some part in the history of Delhi. Probably the most beautiful building or temple in this part of Delhi is hidden at the dead end of a small lane near the Kinari Market. The Jain Swetambra Temple is a white marble, double storied building, which seems out of place in this region of dark lanes and unpainted homes and havelis. But as the name suggests, it is part of the Swetambra sect, devotees of which believe in wearing only white clothes. Inside the temple there is a profusion of color as you go through the rare manuscripts and images on the ground floor and first floor. Ornate coverings and clothes, an abundance of gold filigree and an amazing black statue somehow seem at variance with the pristine white exteriors of the temple. As you sit outside the temple on its stone benches, you are sure to be served a cool sweet sherbet by the lady living opposite it. It is easy to sit here and forget that just twenty steps away lies one of the noisiest and most crowded parts of Delhi.
Delhi is so full of these hidden treasures that often even those who live near them do not realise how beautiful these places are. Where else can you find large mosques surrounded by slums, or old lakes hidden behind crumbling fortress walls. Come into my favourite city, and explore centuries of Indian history and culture without moving outside its boundaries.
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