The Eternal Glory of Hampi

chillibreeze writer — Jayashree Uppal

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Magnificent, awesome, breathtaking – any of these words would be a feeble attempt to describe the wonder that is Hampi, better known historically as Vijayanagara. Gazing at the panorama of an ancient city set amidst gigantic boulders, one wonders at the vision of a dynasty that turned an architectural dream into a reality. Today, centuries after it was plundered and ransacked, Hampi continues to stun visitors who come to explore it.

As far as the eye can see are numerous barren hills and hillocks on which stand enormous piles of granite rocks and boulders. Some of these are precariously balanced, while others have rolled off their original perch and now lie scattered in disarray. Amidst this rocky splendor are the remains of what was once the pride of the Vijayanagara Empire – temples, halls, palaces, bazaars and royal baths – each a testimony to the ancient kingdom’s architectural opulence.

Hampi was established on the banks of the river Tungabhadra, which is referred to in the Ramayana as the Pampa. Hampi is a corruption of that word. It is believed that when Vishnu rescued the earth from the clutches of a demon, he did so in the form of a boar, in the ‘varaha avatar’. As he rested on the spot known thereafter as Varaha Parvata, the perspiration that dripped from the tusks became two streams, the Tunga and the Bhadra which merged and became known as the Tungabhadra.

Hampi has another association that goes back to the time of the Ramayana. Rama, Sita and Lakshman have trodden these hallowed grounds as have Sugreeva, Sabari and Anjaneya.

Spread over 350 sq. kms, Hampi is about 13 kms north of Hospet in the Bellary district of Karnataka. The Vijayanagar dynasty was founded by two brothers, Harihara and Bukkaraya, in 1336 A.D. It flourished for more than two centuries reaching its zenith in the reign of Krishna Deva Raya. In 1565, the Battle of Talikotta saw the defeat of the Vijayanagar Empire.

The Vijayanagar temple architecture incorporates many legends about Vishnu, Shiva, Rama and Krishna in its intricate carved panels and sculpted pillars; so, a little of knowledge of Hindu mythology would bring alive these ancient stories in one’s imagination.

The Virupaksha temple - where worship with all the attendant rituals continues to this day - goes back to a time even before the Vijayanagar kingdom was established, as does the Hazara Rama temple, the Vitthala temple and many others.

What truly boggles the mind is the enormous scale on which everything has been built and carved and sculpted, whether it is the Ugra-Narasimha seated on the seven-hooded snake Adisesha, the Kadale Kalu Ganesha, the huge stone door with actual bolts and sockets, the Throne Platform, the Stepped Tank, the Elephant Stables and the Hampi Bazaar where, it is said, rubies, emeralds and diamonds lay in heaps, awaiting trade.

The Yali, a recurring motif, in the Veerabhadra shrine

The Yali, a recurring motif, in the Veerabhadra shrine

The Elephant Stables

The Elephant Stables

Equally enthralling is the Lotus Mahal or the Pancha Mahal and the Queen’s Bath. A network of aquaducts, reminiscent of those in ancient Rome, carried water to the city. Some still stand, fairly intact.

The Hazara Rama temple is a visual treat with soldiers, horses, elephants, dancing girls and wrestlers fighting for space on the intricately carved panels of the temple walls.

And if you think you’ve seen it all, the Vitthala temple is a sight that leaves one breathless with disbelief. Which hands were these that carved the monolithic stone chariot with wheels that can move freely as well as the clusters of free-standing columnettes in the mahamandapa that produce an astonishing variety of musical notes when struck? Truly, something that has to be experienced to be believed!

Most tourists stay at Hospet where there is a wide variety of accommodation ranging from ordinary rooms to air-conditioned ones. The larger hotels will arrange a trip to Hampi in a taxi with a government-approved guide. Seeing Hampi involves a fair amount of walking, so it would be a good idea to wear comfortable shoes, carry water, some food and a hat! Within Hampi, there are eateries in the bazaar that offer local food and exotic foreign cuisine as well.

In a nutshell, a visit to Hampi is an absolute must!

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Jayashree writes for chillibreeze.

The Eternal Glory of Hampi

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