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The interesting aspect of pilgrim destinations in India is that you get to see the splendor as well as the squalor, both of which are inherent in such places of “God’s business”. Haridwar is one such place, which is fascinating, yet has some repelling qualities; depending on which India you want to look at. When I went there, the place was teeming with visitors, Indians as well as foreigners, elbowing and jostling each other on the murky ghats of Harki Pouri ( Hari- ki – pairi i.e. the feet of Lord Vishnu ), the main ghat. Lumps of shaven human hair come floating toward you when you are about to take a holy dip to purge all your and you really begin to wonder why you came. However, wait till you witness the Ganga Aarati, which takes place at twilight, precisely at 7 pm, when all the temples on the banks light huge flaming aarties and the whole place reverberates with the Hindu Hymn “Jai gange maata.” I have visited this place over and over again for this magnificent moment, which moves me tremendously. If you pay your pandit a sum of 250 rupees you get the opportunity to hold the aarti yourself.
Harki pouri ghat
Location:
The lifeline of India – the Ganges, flows into the bosom of India at Haridwar, which demarcates the river’s descent onto the plains. It is one of the holiest places; nestled in the Shiwalik foothills of Uttaranchal and has been an pilgrim site for centuries. The banks of the Ganges are inundated with countless temples and ashrams, where people find spiritual redirection.
Spiritual healing:
It is home to many philosophers, mystics, saints, as the pristine surroundings are ideal for their devout dispensations. The spiritual, though now controversial, yoga Maharishi Sri Ramdevji Maharaj who claims to cure all diseases with herbs and yoga has his Divya Yog Mandir in Kankhal. Kankhal, Gangadwar, Billatirtha, and Kusawarta, are the sacrosanct bathing spots in Haridwar, which can be reached by hired cars or buses, and are quite inexpensive. So if you are looking for holistic healing treatments for the mind, body and soul, Haridwar and Rishikesh are the places to visit
Shop Hopping:
You cannot get bored of a place so alive, so vibrant and so diverse. The roadside is lined with shops selling a wide array of interesting knickknacks; items for worship made of shinning brass, curios at shockingly good bargains, crockery made of wood and brass, ornamental vessels, show pieces and household decorative items. Mostly ethnic stuff is available, and it is the place to purchase the rare Rudraksh, just see to it that’s it’s from an authentic seller. It is a small place but buzzes with activity and shops are open as late as 10:30 at night.
Food:
Don’t forget to try the roadside dhabas and small eateries, which look untrustworthy, but are fairly clean and have not jeopardized the stomachs of anyone I know. I had tried stuffed karela, or bitter gourd, from one of these places and the mouthwatering taste still lingers with me. The famous delectable sweets are a must try. However, non-vegetarian food products are banned here, so get ready to go vegetarian for a few days, which will clean and rejuvenate your gastrointestinal tracts in any case
Myths and Legends:
A lot will remain unsaid if the myth associated with the area is not mentioned. The Suryavanshi Prince Bhagirath’s ancestors were burnt to ashes by the curse of sage Kapila, but he made Goddess Ganga flow over the ashes of his ancestors to ensure them heavenly abode and that is how this holy river came to flow in this land. The greatest of all melas, the Kumbh Mela, which takes place once in twelve years, happens here. Why? It is believed that when the heavenly nectar was churned out of the great ocean in a tussle between Gods and Giants, and Indra rushed from place to place protecting it from falling into evil hands, a few drops fell on these consecrated grounds. Some also spilt in Allahabad, Nasik and Varanasi, which is why the Kumbh Melas take place quarterly in these places. Haridwar is also the gateway for the pilgrimage to the shrines of Kedarnath, Badrinath, Gangotri and Jamunotri higher up in the mountains.
However, the most satisfying part about Haridwar is floating the lighted diyas with flowers, on a vessel made of green leaves, over the waters after the aarati. It is said if you make a wish, it floats its way to Baikunth, heaven. The whole river was dotted with these diyas, creating a sacred and beautiful scene. I waded in knee deep and stood entranced at the sight, lost for moments. So many people come with their dreams and unfulfilled desires, filling the river with floating wishes. Hope is in everyone’s eyes. I loved the place as there is something divine yet very melancholic, and it fascinates me every time I go there.
Accommodations:
Accommodation is no problem at all; hotels with various tariffs suiting all pockets can be found here. Hotel Neelkanth, Ganga Sagar Resort, Hotel Classic Residency, and Ananda, which is in Rishikesh, are in the luxury bracket. However, there are reasonable places with decent rooms in the heart of Haridwar like Hotel Shiv Murti and several others.
Places of Interest:
Har Ki Pouri
Chandi Devi
Mansa Devi
Daksha Mahadev Temple
Sapt Rishi
Maya Devi
Gurukul Kangri University
Beauty Point
Neel Dhara Pakshi Vihar
Transportation:
The Chandi Devi and Manasa Devi temples are accessible via a beautiful cable car ride, which gives you a panoramic view of the area and makes you marvel at the technological innovations in this atavistic place. Haridwar is accessible by road, NH 45, which connects it to all major cities and states. There are a number of trains available and it is also accessible by air, the nearest airport being the Jolly Grant Airport 35kms away in Dehradun. Local transport abounds with cycle rikshaws, autos, tangas, tempos and taxis helping you to get around easily.
Many aspects of Hinduism is centered round the holy river Ganges and it receives its due tribute at Haridwar, in a way that is both fascinating and spectacular. Spend some time standing around Harki-pouri and you will feel the place steeped in sacred rituals, which are most interesting to observe. The place is thronged with pilgrims from all over the country and the air smells of burning incense and sounds of pealing bells from temples of all shapes and sizes. You can make offerings at any of these temples so make sure you carry a lot of change!
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