Jaipur-The Greatest Show on Earth

chillibreeze writer — Radhika Bhatnagar

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There are certain experiences that stay with you forever. They survive the test of time, distance and even space. The magic of the city of Jaipur does all this and a lot more. Much more than the zillion articles written about this majestic city will ever be able to say, more than any photographer’s lens will ever capture and definitely so much more than I will ever be able to write. At best, this is an attempt to share some of the magic of a land that I am lucky enough to call home.

No true picture of India can ever be painted without the colorful and vibrant state of Rajasthan. Be it the infinite sand dunes, the myriad colors of the traditional garments worn or the ubiquitous camel, the strong presence of this quintessential Land of Kings cannot be debated.

The capital city of Jaipur, more commonly referred to as the Pink City— a name whose roots date back to 1876, when the entire city was painted pink to welcome Prince Albert and Queen Elizabeth II— is a magical world in itself.

Founded in 1727 by Sawai Jai Singh II, this city boasts of being the first planned city of the country. Surprisingly, somewhere in the never-ending crowds of curious tourists and resilient locals, you will indeed find some method to the madness.

Where once the dusty broken roads made traveling to this city a nightmarish experience, today the wide roads, especially on the highway have not only increased accessibility but have actually made the journey pleasant and relaxing. The five-hour drive to Jaipur from the national capital is mostly stress-free and the entire stretch is dotted with resorts and hotels where you can freshen yourself and grab a bite as well.

The most popular amongst these (partly because it is the mandatory 15-minute -stop for all the RTDC buses) is the RTDC run MIDWAY resort in Bheror, famous for its affordable South Indian quick bites.

With some tasty snacks happily tucked in, the two and a half hours drive that remains whizzes past you, and before you know it, you find yourself at the mesmerizing fort of Amber, which was the former capital of the kingdom. However, due to the scarcity of water here, and the surge in the population of Jaipur, the latter was made the capital in 1727. The Amber fort, perched atop a hill, casts a spell with its intricate interiors, delicate mirror work and majestic aura.

The reason why this city has an identity that is dominated by its past is because the people here have not pushed away their heritage as something that they have merely inherited, but even today are constantly attempting to add to that which is uniquely theirs. They wear their traditions, culture and heritage proudly on their sleeves.

The city of Jaipur is abuzz with activity, the sounds and sights of which are both enigmatic and overwhelming at the same time. For as far as your eyes can take you, you will witness a contradiction that defines the present state that Jaipur is in.

While the city’s old charm is still intact with its intimidating forts and palaces, the impact of globalization and rapid technological development is tangible. So you will have a modern air –conditioned mall against the backdrop of the walled city and cyber cafes and cell phone shops right in front of the City Palace. And while a shiny Mercedes stands proudly next to a run down 1975 Fiat it won’t be difficult to see young women dressed in western outfits adorning the traditional nose ring or payals.

This is what gives Jaipur its unique flavour. It seems as though through the years , the line between ‘Then’ and ‘Now’ and between ‘What is’ and ‘What was’ has blurred making it difficult to distinguish between the two.

At the heart of the city lies the City Palace, built by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh during his reign. The premises consist of several smaller palaces such as the Chandra Mahal, Mukut Mahal, Mubarak Mahal, Shri Govind Dev Temple, Maharani's Palace and the City Palace Museum.

After crossing the first square, a beautiful gateway leads you to the Diwan-I-Khas, a hall meant for a private audience. Here you will find two sterling silver vessels on display, which were made for the Maharaja Sawai Madho Singh II to carry water from the River Ganga to drink on his trip to England.

The Diwan-I-Aam, which was meant for public audience, forms the other attraction of this courtyard. At present, it is an art gallery featuring fascinating painted ceilings and singular ancient handwritten original manuscripts of Hindu scriptures.

The City Palace is a structure of historical importance and a souvenir of the regal past. The palace, with its royal grace stands as a symbol of magnificence. The sheer number of tourists visiting this palace everyday is a testimony to its beauty and charm.

A stones-throw away from the City palace is another magnificent tourist attraction, The Hawa Mahal. Literally translated, Hawa Mahal means the Palace of Winds. Architecturally too, that was the intention with which it was created. An ingenious piece of Mughal architecture, the air circulation through the windows always keeps the palace cool. As a matter of fact, the Hawa Mahal is believed to have been built for the women of the royal families, since they had to observe strict "purdah". The small windows and screened balconies were used by the women to watch processions and different activities taking place on the streets. This way, the women could enjoy a sense of freedom without breaking any traditions.

In the heart of the city, one finds oneself completely spellbound by everything witnessed. From the English –speaking street hawker to the warm hospitality of the locals, from the authentic spicy and ghee-dripping dishes (so much for the global health food fad!) to the intricate silver jewelry, from the ubiquitous mirror work to the auto-wallahas who are always trying to fleece you, from the history behind every street to the numerous temples in the city, from the tempting handicrafts to the inviting five-star hotels and from the soulful Rajasthani music to the diverse tourist body here everything and everybody is unique and adds to the wholesomeness of the experience that is Jaipur.

People visiting Jaipur often remark that when they leave the city, they feel like they have taken a little bit of the city back home with them. I am grateful to be able to say that each day that I spend here in my hometown; I take a little bit of the city and add it to my identity.

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Radhika writes for chillibreeze.

Jaipur-The Greatest Show on Earth

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