Travel Kerala: Kerala's Attractions

chillibreeze writer — Shabbir Merchant

Kerala, the small, thin state on the Malabar Coast, in the southwestern region of India, had remained a void on the tourist map up to the last decade. Things changed fast in the mid-nineties with the government's policy of liberalization and suddenly Kerala has become the tourist hot spot in the 2000s.

The state had not been a major destination for travelers, Indians or foreigners, because it had very few celebrated sights, unlike the adjacent state of Tamil Nadu, which has several temples, and Karnataka, which has both temples and palaces besides hill stations to boast of. As for beaches, Goa is the reigning queen. However, every visitor to Kerala has been enchanted by it. It certainly has at least one unique selling point - its backwaters. Nowhere else, not even Kashmir, has anything like this inhabited area of lagoons, lakes, canals and paddy fields; where visitors can gradually feel their worries fading away from them, like a snake sloughing its old skin.

Industries are wary of starting a business in this state, as Keralites are known for an exuberant consciousness of their rights - a result of living in the most educated and developed state of the country with a literacy rate of a 100 per cent. The cities in Kerala are perpetually seething with strikes and agitations. These are a result of the communist power over Kerala, which is ironically religious communism. The leaders of the Communist Party openly involve themselves in religious functions and celebrations besides conducting ‘pujas’ and ceremonies themselves. The lack of industrialization has somehow saved Kerala from the evils of pollution, making it the greenest state of the country. In fact the greenery is so distinct, that if you are to travel by road or air you would definitely notice the lush green at the border to the adjacent state.

Kerala is famous in the country and abroad for its high literacy rate and everybody believes that this is a result of communism. But this is a myth. Though communist governments are believed to have conducted vigorous literacy campaigns, Kerala had the highest literacy rate much before communism took root. The main cause of literacy in Kerala goes back to the enlightened royal government of Travancore and the vigorous efforts of Protestant missionaries in the nineteenth-century. The latter’s influence also explains that more than a fifth of Kerala's population is Christian.

If one is to travel to Kerala by air, the options are to land in one of the two airports at either Kochi (Cochin) or Thiruvanathpuram (Trivandrum). While Trivandrum is the capital of the state of Kerala, it is also a beautiful seaside city built on seven hills. The city gets its name from the word Thiru Ananthapuram, meaning the city of Anantha or the abode of the sacred serpent Anantha. Anantha, according to Hindu mythology, is the serpent on which Lord Vishnu, the preserver of the Hindu trinity, reclines. Trivandrum is connected by air with Mumbai, Delhi and Chennai and by rail with all major cities. By road, the journey is pleasant and comfortable as Kerala is connected with all major cities of all states of the country. The roads are smooth and Keralites are supposed to have the largest and most efficient transport service as far as 'private buses' are concerned.

Thiruvanathpuram (Trivandrum)

Trivandrum can be the most ideal stopover if one wishes to go on package tours to Kanyakumari or Kodaikanal. A Kanyakumari tour from Trivandrum (88 km by road) is a daily tour to the southern most point of the country. It is the meeting point of three oceans - the Bay of Bengal, the Arabian Sea and the Indian Ocean. Besides its importance as a pilgrim center, it is famous for its beautiful sunrises, sunsets and moonrises over the waters. On the other hand Kodi, as locals refer to Kodaikanal, is a small and beautiful hill station. Both the sights are in the adjacent state of Tamil Nadu, but are more easily accessible from Kerala’s capital. Trivandrum otherwise has no celebrated spot worth the visit, yet it is a beautiful and enjoyable city with the charm of a former royal and religious capital. The city abounds in splendid Indo-Saracenic buildings. Trivandrum has clean streets, unlike several other Indian cities, which adds to its attractiveness. Another surprising feature, since it seems to be a part of any area in the country, is that there are rarely beggars on the streets.

The only developed beach resort and perhaps the best in this region of the country is Kovalam, which is 16 km from Trivandrum. The natural bay is a safe sea-pool, free from high waves and surges and the beach resort of ITDC, Ashoka Beach Resort, is of international standards. The beach is free from pollution and waste, as Kerala has no industrial waste in the first place. This beach is as good as some of the beaches of Goa.

Kochi (Cochin)

The other city of interests is the port of Cochin. It is the commercial hub of Kerala and is also of great historical importance. It has a fine natural harbor around which the city has grown. Flights are available from all major cities of the country to Cochin and it is also well connected by rail. When traveling about in Kerala, Cochin is the ideal base. Many places of tourist interest are easily accessible from here.

Guruvayur

Guruvayur is an important pilgrim center of Kerala, 88 km from the Cochin. It attracts thousands of pilgrims from all parts of the country because of its temple dedicated to Lord Krishna, known in Kerala as Guruvayurappa. Though the history of the temple is shrouded in mystery, there is evidence that it existed in the 16th century and might date back several centuries prior to that. The name of the temple is linked to Melpattur Narayanan Bhattathiri, the author of Narayaneeyam, a Sanskrit work comprising 1000 slokas of inimitable beauty. It is believed that it was at this temple that he composed the couplets. However non-Hindu visitors may have to be satisfied with just observing the temple from the outside as they are not allowed inside the temple. As for accommodation in Guruvayur, a number of ITDC and KTDC recognized hotels and guesthouses, besides other hotels and rest houses are lined up in the town.

Trichur

Trichur, 78 km north of Cochin, is famous as the manufacturing hub of cotton clothes. Lying at the base of a hill crowned by the famous Vadakkumnathan (Shiva) Temple, this former capital of Cochin State was first captured by Zamorin and later by Tipu Sultan in the second half of the 18th century. The Vadakkumnathan Temple is a classic example of the Kerala style of achitecture. The temple contains the sacred shrines of Paramashiva, Parvathy, Sankarnarayan, Ganapathi, Sri Rama and Sri Krishna. The central shrines and Koothambalam exhibit exquisite vignettes carved in wood. Legend has it that Parasurama founded this temple. Trichur Puram, the grandest temple pageantry in Kerala, is celebrated here in April every year. Non-Hindus are not allowed inside the temple, but it is spectacular even from the outside. The other architectural attraction of the town of Trichur is the Town Hall, an imposing building with a Chitralayam, picture gallery, where mural paintings from all parts of Kerala are exhibited.

Peechi

Peechi Dam, 32 km east of Trichur, is a lovely modern irrigation project and an ideal picnic spot with boating and swimming facilities.

Malampuzha

The Malampuzha River is another spot, which promises to provide a restful and tranquil visit. The site lies in a bowl formed by the lower hills of the Western Ghats. The vast lake is ideal for a boat cruise while fishes like katla and mirror carp abound in the water. Fishing and boating facilities are available for those who are interested.

Thattekkad

Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary, which is 32 km from Kalady, a pilgrim centre on the bank of the Periyar river, and birth place of Sri Sankaracharya the great Indian philosopher who lived in the 8th century - is the only one of its kind in Kerala. Established in 1983 it is a peninsular area of 25 sq km formed between the branches of the Periyar River in Malayatoor Forest Division. The fauna includes both nesting and migratory water birds and waterside birds. The notables among them are Malabar Grey hornbills, the Great Indian hornbills, Grey jungle fowl, herons, egrets, jungle mynas, woodpeckers and rose ringed and blue winged parakeet.

The Periyar Game Reserve is worth a visit, though it’s unlikely to spot a tiger. The forest is so dense that it can shelter a few thousand of them, but they are on a decline in the country as poaching has dramatically increased. Most of the wildlife watching is done from boats that cruise on the Periyar river. Rice boats converted into modern houseboats contribute to the exotic atmosphere. The hotels and the houseboats are decorated traditionally and are worth staying in. Cruising through the backwaters on these canoe-like boats is a worthwhile experience, albeit an expensive one.

Munnar

Munnar, 135 km from Cochin, has a cool bracing climate and exudes an old-world charm with rolling tea and cardamom plantations. There are enchanting high ranges, lakes, streams and beautiful views of low lying clouds and mist filled valleys. Anaimudi, the highest peak in South India at 2595 meters above sea level, can be reached from Munnar, which is at 1652 meters above sea level. Accommodations for long stays are available from Rs.1500 onwards for a double bed in ITDC and KTDC approved hotels. Transportation is in the form of jeeps.

Inspite of some of the most exquisite and picturesque landscaoes, Kerala has remained unknown on the tourist map of the country for centuries. There can hardly be a place on the surface of this earth where the people of this state have not had their influence. A doctor friend of mine told me recently about a visit abroad to a non-English speaking country, where he expected it to be difficult with assistance from a non-English speaking nurse. So he asked for an interpreter and was surprised when in stepped a nurse from Kerala who not only spoke English, but also the local language. Its people have reached far and wide and may its beauty also extend the same influence.

(Cities such as Trivandrum and Cochin are now renamed, Thiruvanathpuram and Kochi).

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