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There are many places of historical importance scattered throughout India. In some places the past is so much a part of the present that you can feel yourself transported into a bygone era.
One such place is the fort of Mandavgarh or Mandu, as it is more commonly known, situated in the Vindhya Range at 2000 feet above sea level. There is a deep ravine which separates it from the Malwa Plateau in Central India. Mandav is 100 Kms from Indore, the nearest airport.
The history of Mandav is known from the Paramara period in the 8th century A.D. Later it was conquered by the Delhi Sultans. They called it Shadiabad, which means ‘The City of Joy’. The monuments are a mix of the Hindu and Afghan style of architecture
A number of monuments are spread over a distance. Among the most important are:
The Delhi Darwaja and Hoshang Shah tomb
The Delhi Darwaja is one of the twelve gateways to the city and is made up of reddish stone. The Hoshang Shahs tomb is a fine example of Afghan style. It is recorded that four architects from Shah Jahan’s court visited Mandu and took inspiration for the Taj Mahal.
The Jahaz Mahal and Hindola Mahal
The Jahaz Mahal, or the ship palace, resembles a ship sailing in water. There are two lakes, Kapur Talao and the Munja Talao, at the front of and behind the monument. The beautiful reflection of the palace can be seen in the tank waters. This was built in the period of Sultan Ghias-ud-din Khilji as a pleasure resort for his large harem.
The Hindola Mahal or the Swing Palace has been built with sloping walls, which make it look like a swing. This was used as an audience hall. There is a step well called Champa Baoli near it, which was connected to under ground rooms with arrangements for cold and hot water for bathing.
The Palaces of Roopmati and Bazbahadur
The palace of Sultan Bazbahadur and Roopmati are exquisite examples of the Islamic style of architecture. They have large courtyards. The palace of Roopmati was used as a check post in the times of an invasion. The tale of these two still resonates in the monuments of Mandu. Sultan Bazbahadur had gone to the dense woods near the Narmada River. Here he heard a sweet voice singing a divine song. When he reached the spot, he saw a beautiful maiden singing to the woods, the deer and the birds. He was mesmerized by her beauty and enchanted by her voice. When he asked her to become his wife she told him that until and unless the River Narmada starts flowing at Mandu she will not be able to marry him. This was because she used to pay homage to the river before having her food. The Sultan then went to the river and asked it to climb over the mountain and start flowing at Mandu. The river god granted his wish and told him to search for a sacred tamarisk and dig wherever it is found. There he found a spring of pure Narmada water which was a tributary. The king dug a reservoir at the place which was called the Rewa Kund. Rewa is another name of the river Narmada. He built a palace at this place and the waters of the fountain were provided to the baths of the palace. The river can be seen at a distance, as a silvery shimmering line in the Nimar plains, from the palace. Bazbahadur was later defeated in a battle and fled from the battle field. Roopmati committed suicide after consuming poison. The balladeers of Malwa still tell you the story.
The best time to visit
The best time to visit this splendid fort is in the monsoons. The whole landscape is transformed into a lush green carpet. The weather is crisp with a cool breeze and it is a perfect time to explore the monuments. There is a rich surrounding of mango, tamarind and banyan trees. There are a lot of baobab trees, which stand out with their thick trunks and leafless branches. The tree gets leaves only in the rainy season and is known as ‘khursani imli’ in the local dialect. The fruits hanging from leafless branches look strangely beautiful. This place is also famous for delicious custard apples. In the rainy season the monuments have a mystical beauty with purple sunset skies as a backdrop. At this time one can easily imagine the long lost times of sultans and armies, of battles fought and lost and the tragic and romance of the tale of Sultan Bazbahadur and Roopmati.
How to reach
By road
[1] 100 Kms from Indore
[2] 285 Kms from Bhopal
[3] 157 Kms from Ujjain
There are daily flights from Mumbai and Delhi to Indore. Indica taxis are available from Indore to Mandu.
Indore is connected by train from Delhi and Bombay.
Accommodation
Madhya Pradesh tourism has two properties
The Malwa Resort
The Malwa Retreat
The resort has individual huts, which are very comfortable, both air conditioned and without and with TVs.
The tarrifs are in the range of Rs 1200 to 1500 for an A.C. room and Rs 1000 for a non A.C. room.
Website
www.mptourism.com
Shopping
You can buy the beautiful Chanderi and Rewa [Maheshwari] saris here which the state is very famous for. Some medicinal herbs and local handicrafts are also available.
Excursions
You can go to Maheshwar and Omkareshwar in a day from Mandu. Maheshwar has beautiful ghats near the Narmada River. Omkareshwar has an ancient Shiva temple situated near the river.
If you are really looking for a place, which is far from the madding crowd to relax in, then Mandu is an ideal location. It will refresh you with its charm and beauty. This is really the city of joy.
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