A CharmingTravelogue About
the Sleepy Fishing Town of Murud

chillibreeze writer — Puja Mukherjee Khattri

The excitement that accompanies the idea of a holiday steadily rises during the 160 kilometer drive up from Mumbai to Murud. The Western ghats in all their glory lead you through small villages and towns to this wonderful little town of Murud. Before you arrive at the capital of the former Janjira state you pass the Fansad Wild Life Sanctuary.

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While we are tempted to change our plans and spend our weekend at the sanctuary we decide to come back another weekend to enjoy the verdant beauty of Fansad. The soft gentle ocean breeze that welcomes us later assures us that we made the right decision by giving Murud a fair chance.

Once we are settled into our hotel perched atop a hill we step out to take in the breathtaking view of the silvery beaches as the sun gets ready to set for the day. It is low tide and the beach is firm to the touch. The kids’ hopes of playing in the soft and grainy sand, is undaunted however as I find them working earnestly at a sand castle.

A charming tonga ride gives us an opportunity to look around as well as get the latest news in town. Our tonga driver points out the palace of the Nawab on the edge of a hill. The location seems to be out of a Victorian novel. A closer view of the palace reveals the distinct Mughal architecture with a touch of the Gothic. The coat of arms mounted on the main gate depicts the maritime prowess of the Siddis. Unfortunately, the palace is not open to the public so we have to make do with our imagination for a description of its interiors.

An island fort of Padmadurga is silhouetted in the last light of the day. It stands silent, almost in reverence of the fierce battles it has witnessed between the Marathas and the Siddis over supremacy of the western coast seas. We are informed that the fort can no longer be visited. On seeing the let down look on our faces the driver informs us that the Janjira fort will not disappoint us. It is dark now and the roads are well lit and lined with vendors selling fresh coconut water. After a refreshing drink we make our way back to the hotel to tuck into delicious seafood. It has been a wonderful day and even before plans are made for the next day the children are asleep. The night sky glitters in all its starry splendor while the lights of the town below twinkle away almost in competition. It has been a wonderful start to our holiday at Murud.

The next morning a twenty five minute drive from Murud brings us into the fishing village of Rajpuri. The fort of Janjira is located a boat ride away. We opt for a sail boat over a motor one and are glad with our choice as the water gently laps us closer to the fort. One of the boatmen is also a guide and we are given an introduction to the fort even before we reach it. Ajay, the guide, challenges us to point out the entry point to the fort and sure enough we are unable to find it. The fort is designed in such a fashion that the entrance is hidden from all angles. The name Janjira finds its roots in the Arabic word of Zizera, which means island. It is said that the Janjira Jal-durg (sea fort) was constructed by an Abyssinian minister, Malik Ambar, in the service of the Sultan of Ahmednagar, who belonged to the famous Nizamshahi dynasty. Built at the end of the 17th Century it took 22 years to create this magnificent fort on 22 acres of land. Ajay points out the stones of the outer walls that have borne the brunt of the sea for centuries and worn away, but the mortar which seals the stones is still intact. When we step off the boat onto the steps of the fort I notice a stone carving depicting six elephants trapped by a single tiger – a symbol of the bravery of the Siddis, the guide tells us.

It is strange to find fresh water on land surrounded by the sea; the island fort has not one but in fact two sources of fresh water, a pond and a deep well. However since neither has been cleaned for a long time we decide not to taste the water. Most of the living area of the villagers and the royal residence is in ruins but silently tell tales of a time long gone. We climb onto the fort wall, which is 40 feet high and still holds intact some of the five hundred canons that the fort once boasted of. Amongst these the most famous is the Kalal Bangdi. As the sun moves overhead we find ourselves taking refuge under the shade. Ajay asks Arnav, our son, to touch the canon. Apprehensive, for he knows that the rising mercury would have made the metal hot to touch, he brushes his hand against it. His eyes gleam with surprise, “Mom it isn’t hot, how is it possible?” It is the amalgamation of five metals which keeps the canon cool even during the hottest day! We enjoy the cool breeze flowing in through the tiny arched windows, which create the perfect shot of the sea. Ajay informs us that the windows are not visible from the outside. They were used to keep a watch on enemies he dramatically adds as he talks to the children.

Next it is the visit to the Panchaitan Peer of Shah Tahir, who was considered to be important in the court of Burhan Nizamshah. Unlike most forts the Janjira fort is oval in shape and is known to have never been captured. Till very recently it was inhabited and then evacuated and put under the care of the archaeological department. It is getting warmer and we decide to head inland. While we wait for our boat to arrive we take in a closer view of the receding stones of the outer walls. Just as the guide mentioned the mortar is in place. The stones have been cemented by an interesting mixture which included glass, jaggery and lime. Many attempts were made by Shivaji to conquer Janjira, but it stood steadfast and tall in the face of every attack.

Back in Murud we spend the day as good holidayers – lazing! In the evening we take a short drive to Idgah. From here you get a breath taking view of the surrounding areas. There is a lot more to see in and around Murud and we realise that a weekend does not do justice to the historical and cultural richness of this sleepy fishing town. A little later we discovered Khaja at a local sweet shop. Made of rolled and cut flour dough, it is fried and then dipped in syrup. Crunchy by texture, the sweet surprises you by melting in your mouth. It definitely helped enhance a wonderful holiday and sweetened our memories of Murud.

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—About our writer:

Puja writes for Chillibreeze