Time Stands Still in Romantic Venice

chillibreeze writer —Ravi Kunjithai

If you are a psychologist doing a word association analysis, most of your subjects will say ‘Romantic’ when asked what connotations ‘Venice’ brings to mind. Immortalized by Shakespeare in ‘Merchant of Venice’, this city is universally acclaimed as a must for a romantic trip. The moment you get off at the railway station, Venice transports you away from reality. Your senses absorb the uniqueness of the city that has been afloat for nearly 1500 years. You get a strange feeling of having traveled in a time machine to reach a city, filled with narrow streets, 14th century facades, bridges and waterways, corner cafes and houses with flower laden balconies.

Laidback Waters

What strikes you immediately is the joyous absence of the cacophony of traffic. The only sounds that you hear are a passing gondolier singing, the conversations in the café, or the wind blowing through the serene city. Time stands still in Venice, where an organized tourist is unwelcome. This is not a city where you come armed with a list of the 10 “must sees”. Here you must meander, roam, amble and happily get lost. The locals insist that this is the way to experience the city and it is interesting what you discover in Venice when you wander this way. You might discover a roadside café that makes fantastic home salted sardines and the baccala, monkfish in olive oil, a local favorite; a museum dedicated to music or may be murals; or a shop selling unforgettable gelato, ice cream. Go ahead and Play Marco Polo! Walk or take a water taxi or a water bus. That is your arterial communication while in Venice.

Watery Pleasures

If one icon symbolizes Venice, it is a gondola. I was eager to sail through Venice on this romantic boat, but be aware of certain harsh facts file figures before you embark on a dreamlike cruise. Bargaining is completely permissible in Venice. It was devastating when I discovered I was taken for a ‘ride’: I was offered the same circuit tour for 40€, when I had paid 150€ the previous day! Strangely, there was no rancor; I thought the sojourn was worth it. The smiling gondolier charmed us with a song as he navigated his way through the calm waters. Hearing the word ‘Amore’ in his song further strengthened my association of the word ‘romantic’ with Venice. We drank in every moment of our gondola ride as we passed beautiful churches with spires, the water traffic police, busy water buses swooshing by and colorful floating vegetable vendors. The entire scene looked like it was part of a fairytale.

Café Culture

You can continue to soak in the charming Venetian atmosphere at the Piazza San Marco. Napoleon called this beautiful public square, “The finest drawing room in Europe.” Bustling with tourists, overflowing cafes, and overfed pigeons, this place is a must visit for all tourists wanting to pay obeisance to shrines like the Café Florian or its legendary rival, The Grand Café Quadri. Locals hold a grudge against the latter as it was popular with Austrian and, later, German military officers.

Café Florian was built in 1720. Since then, it has played host to the most famous aristocrats, national heroes and intellectuals. The Café is famous for the frescoes, which are called ‘Chinese’, ‘seasons’, ‘famous people’ and so on. The beautiful interior, the unique table linen, and the elegant silverware are all reflections of graceful and stylish Venice.

It is magical to watch the whole square change as dusk falls. The café’s are packed to capacity, particularly in summers. The Piazza is thronged by hundreds of people, and the strains of various genres of music fill the air. People linger over their drinks and enjoy the musical evening. You can scout around for the music you like. Head for Café Chioggia, if jazz is your passion: while the best quartet performs at Doge’s Palace.

Bacari Hopping

If you are a soul, who believes in the famous George Bernard Shaw quote “Alcohol is the anesthesia by which we endure the operation of life”, then you must learn to bacari hop in Venice. A bacari is the Venetian term for osteria, a rustic and traditional regional Italian restaurant, and this is where you can get a stand-up lunch or snack because there are usually no tables or chairs. Residents of Venice often meet in these places to have a drink and a chat or play cards. Harry’s Bar is one of the most recommended bacaris. It had been the haunt of famous people like Ernest Hemingway, Marlene Deitrich and Ava Gardner. In 1948 Giovanni Bellini held his art exhibition here, where he was honored by a cocktai, which is now popular universally as Bellini.

Take home a little bit of Venice

The art of blowing glass at Murano, the exquisite lace work of Burano and the breathtakingly gaudy Venetian masks are few of the things that you must see if you are a self confessed “Ethnic Handicraft Junkie”. Murano is a peripheral island, where glass blowing is an art. Amidst numerous trinkets, you may find a genuinely artistic work. The lace work of Burano has been passed down generations. The famous ‘air stitch’ and other creations are painstakingly made and suitably priced! Venetian masks are another example of quintessential souvenirs that peep out at you from everywhere. They are embellished with sequins and quite spectacular. Giorgio Clanetti specializes in exquisite masks of leather and papier-mâché.

Romantic gondola rides, piazzas filled with local flavor and spectacular souvenirs are just some of the things that make your Venetian vacation a heady mix of dream and reality. “Venice is like eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs at one go” said Truman Capote in a travelogue article. That in essence is Venice: irresistible, rich, intoxicating, romantic and leaves you with a yearning for more.

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—About our writer:

Ravi says "After having served all over the country as a Doctor in Indian Army, I have ultimately settled down in Bangalore of late. Johny walker's motto is most appealing to me- Just keep walking! I love travelling. I feel there is so much of India yet to be seen. Love playing with Gizmos of all sorts. According to me Computer is the greatest invention of all times."