The Red Earth of Araku Valley

chillibreeze writer — Mithi

The Journey to Araku Valley

No longer does my heart search for a quiet countryside weekend in Switzerland. Nor do I long for the serenity of the Himalayas. Because I have found my haven of peace, my own getaway, one that I will in all probability go back to over and over again for its unspoilt beauty, serenity and warmth.

This is Araku Valley, nestled amid the Anantagiri Hills, Eastern Ghats. The journey to the valley from Visakhapatnam (at a distance of 112 km) can be done by rail or road. However, the first option scores infinitely above the road journey in its languid movement and gradual ascent up the hills. Kirandool Express takes you past a series of small stations in its four-hour journey before finally snaking its way through 48 big and small tunnels, each dimly lit. Of these, the 36th tunnel measures 1.2 km and is believed to be the longest.

While the tunnels work their magic on you with a dramatic interplay of dark shadows looming on both sides of the train and accentuated by the presence of sodium lamps in the tunnels, outside Nature is pristine in its beauty. Our ascent up the hills is gradual and we are grateful for that as it gives us just the right amount of time to take in the beauty of the hills as they show off their proud heads, a pale blue in colour which gradually darkens to an inky darkness where the mountain meets the earth. Here’s where thickly-wooded forests meet the blueness of the hills, and with the sun filtering through the trees, could there be more beauty anywhere else?

Shimliguda – Almost there

We finally reach Shimiliguda East, the highest point in Asia on the broad gauge line at 996.2 metres above sea level. The gentle moountainscape is still with us as we smell the cool mountain air and see their tops tinged with pink here, cream there and lilac in the far corner. As the train snakes past, we glimpse a waterfall too. So, here we are at Shimiliguda, the convergence point of three neighbouring states – Andhra Pradesh, Orissa and Chhatisgarh. “Now, Araku Valley isn’t far away”, we’re told by our enthusiastic guide S. Krishna.

Before we get there, we take in the thick vegetation of mango groves and waterfalls all along the way. Ambling around here can be exhilarating and is highly recommended. At long last, we reach Araku, a quiet hill station situated at a height of 927 metres above sea level. With an area of just 36 sq km, one would think that Araku is small. However, this figure belies anyone exploring such beautiful country as it unfolds more and more of its picturesque self.

Araku Valley

Padmapuram Gardens

A short drive away from the station is the famed Padmapuram Gardens, built in 1942 on a 26-acre plot to supply vegetables to the soldiers who fought World War II. After the War, it was converted into a Horticultural Nursery cum Training Center where orchards, rare species of flowers and trees, tree houses and stone sculptures greet the eye. The gardens are well laid out and, as everywhere else, the “araku” or red soil of this region forms a colourful contrast with the dense greenery in this garden. A pleasurable way of seeing the gardens is to get on to the Araku Express toy train, popular with visitors to the gardens. A beautiful rose garden and exotic varieties of plants form the chief attractions here and are sold to visitors.

The Museum of Habitat

In less than 10 minutes, we arrive at the Museum of Habitat, which showcases the lifestyle of the tribals who inhabit the valley. The museum, housed in a charming red-roofed bungalow, depicts scenes from the daily lives of the tribals. As we move from room to room, we are greeted by such realistic sculptures of tribals in their natural habitat that on many occasions, visitors take them for real! While a tribal lady cooks the evening meal, another feeds her child and a male tribal watches guard over his family, spear in hand. The weapons of the tribes form a large part of this fascinating but small museum. Their chunky silver jewellery, ornate and elegant, is showcased in the main atrium of the museum.

It is said that 17 tribes inhabit this area and live off the produce of the forests. Chiefly agriculturists involved in terrace cultivation, these days, many of them have been forced to take up small jobs in construction. Though they lead primitive lives, it is fascinating to note that many of them also make exquisitely crafted handicrafts made of bamboo, cane, leather and terracotta for a living.

They are famous among tourists for their distinctive style of dressing – the women wear saris with the ends tied together and draped over one shoulder. They are always dressed in vivid colours – reds, orange, navy blue and green – and complemented by orange, red and purple flowers in their hair. They wear jewellery that we saw earlier in the day at the museum as armlets, nose rings, bangles and necklaces. Just as we see them in the distance when suddenly we hear the cry of the dancers, ready to burst into song and dance, known as Dhimsa, to the beat of the drummer sitting close by. Crowds gather and join in, and the dancers are only too eager to include anyone who can share their sense of rhythm.

The Anantagiri Coffee Plantations

The dancers put us in a happier frame of mind as we weave our way on to see the Borra Caves, known far and wide for their fantastic natural limestone formations. But before we can get into the mouth of these caves, we must first drive up narrow and tortuous winding roads for about 90 minutes. On the way, we look down the fall of the valley and see the Anantagiri Coffee Plantations on both sides of the road. Coffee beans, red in colour, make their presence felt, as do peepal and silver oak trees that waft in the breeze. But oh, look down in the heart of the valley where a magnificent patch of bright yellow catches the eye. What could it be? Our guide Roop Kumar tells us that it’s a field of mustard flowers, bright yellow in its brilliance. There seems to be a riot of colour here as a few deep green patches in the heart of the valley set off this brilliant yellow. What could they be, we ask? Terrace vegetation, we’re told, which is very successfully accomplished here. The strong scent of eucalyptus chases us all the way up as we watch in awe at the blueness of the mountains and the surrounding verdant vegetation.

Hawa Pahaad

And now we reach what is perhaps the most dramatic scene in this entire journey, aptly named Hawa Pahaad. We are at a height of 1400 metres above sea level, the highest point of Araku Valley. Legend has it that this site was a battlefield years and years ago when the Maharajas of Orissa and Andhra Pradesh fought to retain it. Finally, it went to the latter state. By now, the shutterbugs among us go crazy with the picturesque settings – lilac mountains, a hazy mist in the distance and slate blue mountains all around us. It’s a perfect backdrop for the many honeymooners we spot here. As we take in the atmosphere, we notice there’s a slight nip in the air, but it is both pleasant and invigorating as our ascent is now somewhat complete.

The Borra Caves

We pull up in a nondescript sloping lane, the entrance of Borra Caves. Monkeys hanging on large trees greet us with their antics. We are now 92 km from Visakhapatnam and at an amazing altitude of 3100 feet in the Anantagiri hill range. The entrance to the caves has a large crater at the top. Legend has it that a cowherd once lost his cow when it fell through this hole and died. When he went in search of it and entered these caves, the existence of these caves came to light. Two more discoverers are attributed with locating these caves – William King, who in 1807 discovered them while doing a geological survey, and Lord Rama. It is said that the exiled Sri Rama spent his time here. Of these, the first story seems to be the most widely accepted.

We enter the caves with a lot of trepidation. So would you if you saw the wonky stone steps that take you down into the mouth of the caves. Light filters through the crater bringing a view of some of the trees with it. Inside, however, it is very dark in parts. Thoughtfully, 64 sodium vapour lamps help to show us our way around the caves, which cover an area of 1 sq km.

These caves are said to be a natural wonder that came into being over one million years ago. The river Gostani flows outside the caves and is believed to flow over a heap of limestone deposits, giving it a foamy or milky appearance. That explains its name – Gostani or “of a cow’s milk”. People believe that the water flowing over limestone deposits has given the river a therapeutic quality.

Inside, the caves are as we stand dwarfed before their imposing height of 200 feet. As we look around, stalactite and stalagmite formations have led to a breathtaking array of naturally hewn shapes. Spot Shiva and Parvati, a tree with its roots overhanging, a lion reaching out to make a kill, a chandelier, a mother and child, Hanuman, a Shiva linga, a human brain, Radha-Krishna and a Nandi. The Shiva linga is a major attraction since we are told that every drop of water that combined with the calcium carbonate present here helped form it.

We are taken up and down difficult staircases and can see these formations best with the help of a torch. Upstairs, a narrow and difficult staircase leads us to yet another thumb-sized Shiva, housed in a temple. These caves mean a lot to the tribals of the area who worship here, particularly on the occasion of Shivratri every year. Our guide, however, is not our only escort here. Bats screech all the way, adding to the eeriness of the caves, a feeling largely heightened by the warm glow of the sodium illumination.

But if it was an exhilarating feeling to be in the company of such natural splendour, it is equally invigorating to be out of it in natural environs. The Borra Caves have held our imagination, but now the majesty of the valley beckons. We submit to its charms yet again.

Fact File:

How to get there:
By air: Visakhapatnam is the nearest airport.
By rail: Araku Station (136 km from Viskhapatnam)
By road: You can drive up from Viskhapatnam or take any of the buses plying here. (117 km from Viskhapatnam)
Best period for visit: October to February
Temperature: 8-11 degrees C
Languages known: Telugu, Hindi and English

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