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Bhutan's Amazing Vista Point: The Tiger's Nest

Bhutan's amazing Vista Point: The Tiger's Nestchillibreeze writerAnita Bora

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In the quiet town of Paro, Bhutan, there are many sights you can discover and enjoy. A few kilometres away from the town is the Taktsang Goemba or the Tiger’s Nest as it is popularly called - a must-visit for travelers. The climb up to the view point is unforgettable; especially when you come comes face to face with one of Bhutan’s most sacred sites!

High up in the mountains, on a cliff face, someone built a monastery (goemba in Bhutanese). Hundreds of years later, we’re still paying homage by climbing up a steep mountainside to catch a glimpse of this beautiful monument!

There are some things that can’t be explained and this is probably one of them. I wonder sometimes, why anyone would actually build a monastery in a place so inaccessible that it takes a two hour tough trek up a mountain and then down a steep set of stairs to cross over to the adjoining mountain, and through a waterfall to reach it.

Well, that’s Tiger’s Nest – a sacred symbol you can’t escape in Bhutan. It’s everywhere – on the currency notes, on T-shirts, on posters and on the walls. But when you see it right there in front of you – words escape you and all you can do is soak in the moment and take in the view.

Taktshang is one of the most sacred pilgrimage sites we are told. The monastery itself is perched on a granite cliff that drops around 900 metres to the valley floor. According to legend, Guru Rinpoche, in the manifestation of his consort Yeshe Tsogyal, flew across the mountains to this spot on the back of a tigress, reaching a cave in which he meditated for three months, converting the people of Paro Valley to Buddhism.

The primary lhakhang was built in its present form in 1692. It suffered a devastating fire of unknown origin during the night of April 19, 1998. According to speculation, the fire was caused by either lightning or an overturned butter lamp.

After build-up around it, we couldn’t possibly miss a visit. The guy at the hotel didn’t really furnish any details about the goemba. Just that it was very beautiful and that it was worth it.

On the way, we decided to take in the ruins of the Drukgyel dzong, which is on a slight deviation on the road to the goemba. Though destroyed now – what’s left of it is still impressive – the stone walls rising upwards giving you the feel of grandeur and elegance. With the backdrop of the mountains, it is indeed an unforgettable location. On the way to the ruins, we also stop a while on the road. Across the yellow fields far away in the mountains, we can actually get a glimpse of Tiger’s Nest.

An hour or so later, after exploring the ruins and enjoying the lovely views, we start off for the base of the mountain where Tiger’s Nest is located. A few vehicles are parked at the base. In fact, at 11 am when we start the trek, people are actually begin to come back when we realise that we hadn’t chosen the best time of the day.

So there we were – armed with a bottle of water – all ready for the climb. A few minutes into the forest, I looked up and I could just see a little glimpse of the structure through the trees. I still have to pinch myself to believe that we’re going to climb to that height and be face to face with the goemba – it already looks inaccessible!

We start the climb and about ½ hour later, the extent of my fitness (or the lack of it!) is revealed as I puff and pant, not being able to cope with the incline. But I try and distract myself looking at the beautiful scenery around me. Tall trees and flowers border the path so we’re mostly walking in the shade. From different points we enjoy a lovely view of the valley. I try and enjoy the sight and take my mind away from my bursting lungs. City life doesn’t prepare one well enough for these adventures, but I am determined to make it to the top - however long it takes!

Around climbing for around an hour, we reach a ridge with a chorten surrounded by colourful fluttering flags. A while later, we reach a tea shop from where you can take a break but we decide to stop there on the way back instead in the fear that it might become a full-stop! We meet tourists trekking back down the mountain – many of them aided by climbing sticks. A good idea, I think in hindsight. But who really carries those things around? Smart people obviously.

The afternoon sun is getting stronger and isn’t making this climbing any easier! Huffing with every step, we finally come upon the last stretch and there in front of us is a view point from where the whole valley spreads out in front of us and we can see the goemba at a slightly lower level now onto one side on the adjoining mountain.

From here, there is a set of steps downwards towards the goemba. We climb down and turn another corner and the only word that emerges is “wow”. It’s probably the most gorgeous sight we’ve ever laid our eyes on – Tiger’s Nest in all its glory, its golden sloping roof glinting in the sunlight, standing tall and proud. My attention goes to the corner-most room of the goemba that looks out into the Paro Valley affording a view to die for. There’s just thick mountainside surrounding the goemba as it hangs on the cliff-face looking out into the rest of the world.

You can enter the goemba but you need to leave all your belongings behind. You also need a special permit to enter the place so make sure that is organized before hand. We spend about one hour at the top – after the strenuous climb – I’m not in a hurry to go anywhere now!

Climbing down is a little easier and this time we stop at the little tea shop. Someone comes out with cups of tea and biscuits which we are really thankful for. The biscuits are quickly consumed by a set of about 3-4 dogs that have come all the way from the top. They’re smart and know exactly how to earn their brownie points. A cute and well-fed brown cat looks rather disinterested in the proceedings. Another forty minutes later, we’re back at our starting point. We return to our hotel, tired but feeling very accomplished.

Paro has many more sights to offer. You can walk its peaceful streets and enjoy the unhurried atmosphere. Tuck into some delicious aloo dum and roti at a local restaurant. No one seems to be in any hurry and it’s easy to slip into that pace. You can walk around the town and across to the Paro dzong, drive up the hill to the Paro museum, enjoy the beauty of the Kyichu lhakhang or just laze around in your hotel. Whatever you choose do - one thing’s for sure – the memories of Paro and the trek to Tiger’s Nest will remain locked in your memory for a long, long time!

Sample pics:

Tiger's Nest

Tiger's Nest

Tiger's Nest

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Out of 5 “chilies”, our editorial team gave this article... Rating 4

 

Out of 5 “chilies”, our editorial team gave this article...

 


—About our writer:

Anita writes for chillibreeze.

 

 

>> Read more articles written by Chillibreeze writers:

1. Articles related to Content and Outsourcing
2. NRI and Expat Articles
3. Potpourri
4. Travel Writing
5. Book Reviews and Interviews

 

 


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