Under the Tuscan Sun

chillibreeze writer — Jaclyn Gloria Ann Paul

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The 7 Wonders of the World have been revised. Likewise, perhaps the quote…

‘If there is a heaven on earth it is here, it is here, it is here’, formerly attributed to Kashmir, now refers to Tuscany. Nature has blessed this land with dumb-founding beauty. Dense woods cover miles of rolling hills adding mystery to bucolic landscape. Elegant Cyprus trees border vineyards of luscious grapes and the silver of olive branches reflects the Tuscan sun. The river Arno flows into the Mediterranean and the Apennine hills stand guard like silent sentinels. Add to this, a skyscape of Romanesque castles with bell towers, detailed arches, niches and facades, Cathedrals housing outstanding marble sculptures and you are in heaven.

The Italian Renaissance was born in this region; Florence in particular, possesses a highly evolved cultural soul. Great architects and artists like Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo, creators of divine frescoes like Giotto and Piero della Francesca, father of the Italian language Dante Alighieri were all Tuscan; nature and man’s genius in a dimension, all its very own.

Toscana is one of Italy’s twenty areas with a population of about 3.6 million. Traces of early Bronze and Iron ages gave way to Apennine culture followed by the stable Etruscan civilization that flourished between the Tiber and Arno rivers. To them goes kudos for laying roads and a boat system, agriculture, mining and promotion of art. Eventually, the great Roman Empire conquered them and their cultures got interwoven. Tourism then got a shot in the Etruscan arm when Tavernas and Trattorias fed and sheltered pilgrim travelers. Tuscany progressed post the medieval battles of the Guelfi (from Florence) and the Ghibellini (from Siena). The port Pisa, towns Siena, Lucca and today’s capital city, Florence enjoyed relative peace although historical rivalries still emerge in the soccer games of today.

Mediaeval times seem to stand still in modern Tuscany and the silence is deafening. Traveling there reveals imposing and elegant 12th and 14th century castle estates, such as Corti Corsini, Vicchiomagio, Fontodi Castello di Brolio, Rocca delle Macie, Costello di Ama, Cecchi, and Fonterutol. Some like Coltibuono are ancient 4th century monasteries that first cultivated grapes. Medieval villages like Voplaia with just 62 people have tiled-roof abodes in a stonewall boundary. Like benevolent archangels, these nobles guard their local folk, prop viticulture and revere Tuscan tradition, food and lifestyle.

Tuscany is at the very heart of a wine-growing region and protects over a 100 grape growing areas. Some of the world’s best wines like Chianti Classico are produced here. Their logo of the ‘Black Rooster’ carried on all the wine bottles of this region, re-affirm success and victory of their medieval battle. These are inherently red wines but white grapes are selectively cultivated to produce globally cherished dessert wines like Vin Santo meaning ‘Holy Wine’. Most Tuscans are Catholics and Churches like the Church of the Coronation of the Virgin Mary, Church of Limbo, masterpiece Cathedrals like the Duomo of Siena and smaller chapels are stunning. These double as tourists spots for 2 to 3 months in the year then get closed and covered with wooden slats to allow the faithful to attend mass and pray.

Tourist time in Tuscany is late July to early March. Walking the narrow cobbled streets shuts one in with history; on either side, tall Florentine structures show only a slim slice of the Tuscan sky. These buildings are never replaced; only restored with similar materials to retain original detail. Coats-of-arm, ancient and often cryptic logos and the emblem of Florence, the lily or the Fleur des Lyly, can be seen engraved everywhere. Today, museums like Da Vinci’s house, galleries like the Uffizi and other national archives showcase previous art splendor and philosophy. The sight of gondolas gliding over the Arno, passing under stone bridges like Ponte Vecchio, makes for memorable photography.

The countryside town of Greve half way between Florence and Siena is quaint and charming. The views are stupendous and on winding, tarred roads cyclo-tourists, motorcyclists and those who practice trekking and horse-tourism stop to taste wine, eat and shop at local stalls full of Tuscan cheeses, cured hams and salt-free breads. Fetes like the Piazzetta Campana and Vino al Vino put up tents and stalls of local wines, olive oils and other produce. Needless to say, not a scrap of litter can be seen anywhere!

Family is important to the Italian social structure and great respect is paid to senior citizens. Music, theater and opera are a way of life and at the Carretto theatre one can watch performances like Pinocchio and Snow White. Annual opera events like ‘Lirica in Piazza’ are sung on the stunning stage of Massa Marittima.

Greve has another well-known personality in the flamboyant ‘Butcher of Panzano’. The spiritual Dario Cecchini says, “I deeply respect life and nature and will not waste these blessings.” Just before the ban on European beef due to mad-cow disease, Dario auctioned off over 250 kilos of steak and other prime cuts. The well-known and prized Florentine steak sells at Euro 45 per kilogram! Via the net, Sir Elton John, Tom Cruise and other world celebrities bought his produce for the profit was auctioned for charity! ‘The Butcher’s Shop’ is just across Dario’s house, which is a restaurant! There is no menu and we ate what he cut, cooked and served! Crowds of customers wait to get in for two night shifts that serve from 7 to 9 and 9 to 11.

Other fascinating feasts pay homage to Saints. One such is celebrated like it was way back in AD 1398. Historical magic is conjured up in markets and town-squares where jugglers, musicians and artisans jostle and enjoy in period costumes of Kings, Knights and Ladies. One can hear merchants shouting out their wares to tourists, flag-bearers, jesters and folk dancers get into the spirit of things.

We cross Radda and other Etruscan towns before we reach Siena. This 14th century town is intriguing and interesting. Tiled houses crowd cheek by jowl and vie for a piece of the Tuscan sun. Civic law dictates that only three colors be used and houses and buildings are either gray or brown with green windows. The monuments, however, use black and white marble in designs brought by the Turks. In Siena there is the world’s first public bank dating back to the 15th century, and with a population of 55,000, has 15,000 students that attend 30 American Universities.

Siena still recalls the medieval battles fought with Florence. Steep and narrow streets are decorated with flags of the District or Contrada that won the last Palio. Initiation into a Contrada can only be done by baptism and this is nothing like the Christian Baptism with water! This civic ceremony registers a new entrant in their records. Fierce loyalty displayed to individual Contradas can be seen at the bi-annual Palio race.

This event is dramatic and grueling. 35,000 thousand spectators crowd in the center of the Plazza. Around this, on an uneven stone track, horses and riders of the 12 districts (the official one for Siena has a black and white shield) gather while bets are placed, jockeys are hired and horses get restless and even run off into the crowd! These deals take a long time and eventually when the gun goes off, the fast and furious race takes just about 1.15 seconds to complete! Since the horse, wearing the district color and symbol is more important than the rider, many rider less horses complete their 3 rounds while others break their legs due to the rough surface. Despite protests from animal rightists groups, the Palio goes on…

Tuscan cuisine spells ‘La Dolce Vita or The Good Life’. Subtle yet distinctive tastes and flavors emerge from home cooked pasta and delicate cheeses like the much-loved Parmesan. Ubiquitous Tuscan white beans are served and gigantic tomatoes get converted into sauces with both wild and domestic meats. Fruit like figs, pears and citrus compliment heart-friendly wines!

‘Never judge a book by its cover’ aptly sums up Tuscany. Medieval exteriors house stylish, modern interiors and wineries have ultra modern gadgets. Obesity is rare and the native Tuscan dresses with trademark Italian style and panache. If one has to choose a romantic getaway that has everything, that would be Tuscany; once there, no one could ever say Arrivederci! Goodbye!

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—About our writer:

Jaclyn,

Born in Andhra Pradesh to non-Indian parents, Jaclyn went from national basketball player to freelance journalist and writer.She is currently a Soft Skill Trainer. A staunch enviornmentalist and joker at heart, she believes that to laugh is to live. Metaphysically inclined she has had quite a few 'strange' experiences. Music and painting are her hobbies but writing is her joyful passion.

Under the Tuscan Sun

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