Gangotri, the source of the mighty River Ganges, was our trekking destination planned in the first week of October, a few weeks before winter set in. There were four of us, two experienced worldwide trekkers, while my other friend and I were first-time, amateur high altitude trekkers.
Located in the Uttaranchal District, Gangotri is a religious Hindu town where worshipers come to visit and pay respects to the holy River Ganga. Our most convenient route took us flying to Delhi, from where we hired a cab to Rishikesh.
Delhi – Gangotri (3042 m)
The journey between Delhi’s satellite city, Gurgaon, and Rishikesh was painfully slow as fog reduced visibility to a few feet. Breaking for brunch at a roadside dhaba (shack), we fuelled our tummies with delicious aloo parathas, a type of Indian bread stuffed with potatoes. This was to keep us going till late evening when we would reach Gangotri.
Rishikesh, known to be the Yoga Capital of the World, is a bustling town and a religious destination. The cab arranged by the agency was waiting for as at a hotel there and without a moment to spare we shifted taxis.
Five to six hours later we reached Uttarkashi (1158 m), a town 155 kilometres from Rishikesh through which the Ganges River flows (locally known as the Bhagirathi). Though it was some time after noon, the weather gave no indication and the chill breeze and fresh air gave us no room to feel tired. A majority of the youth in Uttarkashi, have part-time jobs as guides, cooks, drivers and porters.
After completing the formalities of payment and drinking hot tea at the trekking agency’s office, we continued our journey in another cab. A warning to people with weak spines and motion sickness; this route is not for a delicate body. The seven to eight hour drive through huge, lush mountains was breath taking and it was difficult to ignore the amazingly good condition of the roads. They are managed by the Border Road Organisation of India, which is popularly known worldwide for its high altitude road construction and management.
After a long drive we reached Gangotri. This is the best possible route to take as there is no other way of travelling to Gangotri other than by road; trains ply only till Rishikesh or Haridwar. There are regular buses from Haridwar / Rishikesh to Uttarkashi, but hiring a shared taxi or jeep is faster and more comfortable.
Day 1 - Gangotri (3,042 m) – Cheerbhasa (3,350 m)
Devouring breakfast, we geared up for the eight-day trek ahead. We had eight people accompanying the four of us! It felt strange, but we definitely could not carry the tents and stocks on our own.
Walking along the temple street of Gangotri, we passed through the Forest Guard check post where a minimal fee for maintenance has to be paid - the fees are higher for foreign nationals. The route we were trailing along was a narrow path hugging the mountain. The landscape was a beautiful contrast between the vibrant colors of autumn and the brown mountains. Looking down you could see a tiny stream of the River Ganges. Contrary to its appearance, in no way can you underestimate this river which flows all the way into the Bay of Bengal; providing life to hundreds of towns in its course.
By noon we reached our first base camp – Cheerbhasa. From here we could see three twin snow capped peaks aptly named Bhagirathi 1,2 and 3. There is also a nursery started by Harshwanti Bisht, a reader in the Economics Department of the Gharwal University, to develop thousands of bhoj, birch, tree saplings to be later planted in Bhojwasa. In earlier times, the bark of the bhoj tree was used to write letters. It is now almost extinct as locals use the bhoj timber as fuel, despite a government ban, and trekkers use the branches as walking sticks.
Surrounded by mountains, the sun set by four thirty and the wind blew chills through my warm gear; but this gave me a pleasantly biting thrill. With our stomachs full and the sun hidden, we sneaked into our sleeping bags.
Day 2 - Cheerbhasa via Bhojwasa (3,792 m) to Gomukh (3,989 m)
With the first hintof the sun’s rays, I scurried out to drink in as much as warmth I could. The porters provided us with a nutritious breakfast of pancakes, bread, butter, jam, cereal, oats, tea and coffee).
In tandem with the sun we began hiking further. Along the way, there were shacks with very hospitable people. Conversing with them in Hindi, which is a commonly used language in this region – though the native language is Gharwali, was always mutually pleasant.
Passing through tiny, clear rivulets that led down to the Ganges, the only species of birds found were the Indian mountain crows, which are as big as ravens. The terrain was picture-postcard perfect, with vividly colored bushes that would be any artist’s delight.
Hiking through another camp called Bhojwasa, we saw an establishment built and managed by the Rotary Organisation. Though a thoughtful gesture, the tin roofs were an eye sore.
Crossing moraines we reached our camp site for the night – Gomukh. This was an exciting place to pause at and explore because this is where you can see the mouth of the Glacier that melts to form the Great River. Gomukh translates to the mouth (mukh) of a Cow (gou). No words can do justice to the magnificent beauty of the Gomukh Glacier. In such a place you dare not sneeze, shout or whistle. With an overwhelming sense of calmness we returned to our ritual of following the sun and since it was already sinking behind one of the peaks we too followed suit into our tents.
Day 3 Gomukh (3,989 m) to Tapovan (4,460 m)
The trek on this day was slightly more strenuous than the previous days as we were going to climb the glacier. As this was a steep climb, I found it easier and faster moving on my fours. But there were the porters and other experienced trekkers carrying ten to twenty kilos on their backs, walking upright on two feet as sure footed as mountain goats.
Reaching the top, we could see the snowy Shivling Peak. We walked along alpine meadows passing by abodes of babas (saints) who meditated and lived here through the winter. We also saw a herd of ibecks (a particular type of Indian mountain goat), who did not seem happy at our arrival.
Next morning, with a bleak ray waking me up, I decided to walk where the sun was brighter. In the distance, I could hear a baba meditating and the air reverberating with his chanting. Positioning myself strategically on a rock, feeling like a tiny speck amongst huge peaks, I thought of nothing.
Day 4 - Mehur Glacier and Akash Tal
After breakfast we went for a day hike. We climbed a bit higher to reach a snow filled glacier called the Mehur Glacier. The snow speckled rock reflected the sun so strongly that I did not know if I was warm, cold or blind. The path was rough and as three of us decided to head down further, one of our more experienced friends and the guide proceeded to a frozen lake higher up. Akash Tal as it was named translates to sky (akash) and tal (lake). From the pictures I figured the name out as the lake was as close as it would get to the sky, making its reflection no different from the original.
Day 5 - Tapovan – Gomukh – Bhojwasa
Winter was nearer, getting more severe as it approached. After a discussion at breakfast our group decided to split. Firstly, because both of us amateurs ‘melted’ against nature’s challenge. Secondly, the water was freezing everywhere and our next destination was higher and colder. Thus, our young team of porters decided to split into half to ensure that at least the half that were going higher had sufficient fuel to melt the ice for water.
We parted ways and began our trek down. More than walking I was skidding down the rubble. The depth had no visible sign of an end. With muscles tightened and a lighter body we zipped back down the same trail. We camped at Bhojwasa and rested our aching limbs.
Day 6 and Day 7 - Bhojwasa to Cheerbhasa
Since it was towards the end of the season, the shacks were shutting down and very few pilgrims or trekkers could be seen. While we waited another day we had very interesting conversations with the cook and porters. Some of them had never travelled out of Uttarkashi and had no idea where Bangalore or Bombay were located. We also met a baba who was an engineer by profession and sacrificed it all to wander the enchanted mountains in search of answers.
Day 8 - Cheerbhasa to Gangotri
The last and final stretch made me feel happy to get a chance to be exposed to such beauty and power. But it also made me sad to realise that I did not have the willpower to stay back and be a part of it.
Gangnani Sulphur Bath
On our way down from Gangotri to Uttarkashi, we stopped at a spring called the Gangnani Sulphur Bath. This reward of nature was beyond description. It was nature’s masseur relaxing tight muscles, bodies and minds.
Without tarnishing the beauty further by my words, one thing that has to be said is that this journey is like a rehabilitation session, which is definitely recommended.
Destination: Gangotri / Gomukh Glacier
Region: Gharwal Himalayas – Uttarkashi
Altitude: Max. (4,500m)
Best Season: May, June, August, September, October
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