Travel to Sikkim in North East India

Sikkim is a Heady Mix of Serenity, Mysticism, Vibrant Beauty and History

chillibreeze writer — Ravi Kunjithai

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There is no end to the natural blessings bestowed on the hilly Himalayan state of Sikkim in North East India. Nestled under the protective shadow of its guardian deity, Mount Khangchendzonga (8598mtrs), its sweeping landscape includes luxuriant meadows, slopes set aflame by carpets of rhododendrons, over 450 species of orchids, the confluence of the swirling waters of the Teesta and Rangeet rivers, mist laden peaks and much more.

Mystical Sikkim

There is something mystical in the north eastern region of India and it can be felt in the air. After disembarking at the chaotic Bagdogra Airport and traveling for a few kilometers in the plains, the climb towards Gangtok fills you with a sense of expectation that something is about to change. There is a kind of serenity as you enter this state that is all pervading. The air feels different, the nerves suddenly calm down. Even when two vehicles from opposite directions, get entangled in an inextricable hairpin curve, it is amazing to note that the drivers give each other a big grin, wave and move on. Road rage? Forget it. The Zen and art of living appears to be part of their genetic inheritance. Welcome to Heaven.

A Unique Population

For travelers who value a destination more than just the scenery and monuments, people make a fascinating study and Sikkim is undoubtedly unique in this area. Three communities- Lepchas, Bhutias, and Nepalese make up most of the population. Lepchas, the original inhabitants of Sikkim, are primarily nature worshippers since they believe that the rivers, forests and mountains are the keys to existence. Their culture revolves around the celebration of nature. The Bhutias, of Tibetan origin, introduced Buddhism in the area. The whole hearted adoption of a faith brought in by an outside community is proof of the open mindedness of the Sikkimese. The Nepalese are the most recent settlers and the dominant community now. They form 80% of the population and are responsible for introducing terrace cultivation in the state.

Buddhism in Sikkim

It is not surprising that Buddhism in Sikkim, which houses 194 monasteries, seeps into everyday living. Padmasambhava or Guru Rimpoche is the patron saint of the state. For the spiritually inclined this is the hallowed ground. For the non believer, it is still a journey of discovery. Pay a visit to Rumtek monastery, 24 kms from Gangtok. Built in 1960, Rumtek is the home of the Rumtek Dharma Chakra centre. It is the replica of the original Kagyurpa monastery in Tsurphu, Tibet, the seat of Gyalwa Karmapa Rimpoche, head of the Karmapa sub sect of Tibetan Buddhism. It is an imposing edifice with a breathtaking frontispiece. Here you will find prayer wheel spinning, chanting of prayers and young innocent Llamas playing hopscotch. It is a world far removed from the real one.

Pemayangtse Monastery, the sublime Lotus, is the premier monastery in Sikkim. It is located in Pelling village, 117 kms away from Gangtok. To reach there you will have to navigate through a treacherous mountain route and numerous hair pin bends. However, the dangerous path is worth is as the sight that greets you is breath taking. Thirteen mountain peaks loom over the little village and above them all rules Khangchendzonga, the commanding yet loving deity of Sikkim. Pemayangtse is a visual delight. The fluttering prayer flags welcome you to The Perfect Lotus. Studded with Tantric deities, with their headgear covered by skulls, the lamas and the Buddhas are all carved as stand alone wooden sculptures. On the second storey of the monastery, is the Sang Thog Palri, the seven stages of life after death carved in a single piece of wood. It is a glorious piece of creation, built in seven levels, reaching some 20 feet high to the ceiling. There are Chortens and Buddhas, Boddhisattvas and devotees, dragons and fishes, medallions and bells in a riot of colours. It is said that the whole thing took seven years to carve and two years to paint.

The Old Silk Route and the Indo-China Border

You would definitely want to see the Old Silk Route and the Last Frontier that borders with China. This is in Nathu La and you need government passes issued in Gangtok, which are not difficult to get, to go there. 54 kms of tough ascent takes you through an interesting landscape of a few scattered houses interspersed with Army outposts. The journey is enough to make even the iron-hearted skip a few beats with serpentine roads tantalizingly bracketed by mountains on one side and unfathomable ravines on the other side. After getting out of the vehicles, one is hit by the atmosphere at a height of 14,790 ft. As you take the final step to the pass itself and the Indo-Chinese border, you really chug along slowly. You will see that the small track is maintained the way it was centuries ago. This was the Old Silk Route that merchants took to Lhasa, their goods stacked on donkeys and mules. At the border, a barbed wire separates the two countries and you look out from the heights onto the plains of Tibet, and history.

There are two places worth visiting on the way back from Nathu La pass. The first one is called ‘Baba ka Mandir’, sacred to Army Jawans who pay their obeisance here. It is said that a soldier of the Sikh regiment disappeared here in the 1960s. It is believed that his spirit lives on, watching over his brothers in arms. Irrespective of the ranks that adorn their shoulders, all soldiers pay a visit to the temple in reverence.

The second is Changu Lake, which is located at a height of about 12,000 feet. The 1 km long lake is oval in shape, and 50 feet deep. The grayish-green water body is in the Alpine Zone, and snowbound from December to April. It is home to the unique Brahmini ducks, besides a stopover for many migratory birds. It is considered a very holy site by the people of Sikkim

The Valley of Flowers

Yumthang Valley is a must on your itinerary, if you want to see the valley of flowers. In the flowering season there is a riot of rhododendrons of various hues, chimals and blue poppies. The contrast of the snow covered valley in winter with the flower carpeted floors in summer has to be seen to be believed.

Besides these places, there are numerous others which one can discover serendipitously. However much time you spend in Sikkim, it never seems to satiate one’s appetite for this beautiful, mystical and exotic area.

To get more familiar with India's North East, you could:

Learn more about Chillibreeze's social entreprenuership arm in the NE.
Look at our photo index that has some interesting pictures from the NE of India
Go trout fishing in Meghalaya.
Follow the Buddhist trail at Tawang.
Get a glimpse of the paradise that Shillong, Meghalaya is.

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—About our writer:

Ravi says, "After having served all over the country as a Doctor in Indian Army, I have ultimately settled down in Bangalore of late. Johny walker's motto is most appealing to me- Just keep walking! I love travelling. I feel there is so much of India yet to be seen. Love playing with Gizmos of all sorts. According to me Computer is the greatest invention of all times"

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