Traveling Through India

chillibreeze writer — Remya Abraham

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'What is this life if full of care,
We have no time to stand and stare?'

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So wrote William Henry Davies in the nineteenth century. And yet, his words still ring true, or perhaps truer, in the hyperactivity that constitutes 21st century living. Given that our days are splitting at the seams with activities and ‘commitments’, it is all too easy to forget that you are not a micro component in that microchip processing away facts, figures and whatnot, but a living soul with the capacity to feel intensely and a spirit that yearns to soar into the unknown! I too am guilty of the lapse but I assuage the guilt in the extravagant experience of repentance—traveling!

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My repeated bouts of traveloria, my self-invented word, have taken me to some delightful places. People and nature have had a long-standing relationship and the best way to get acquainted all over again is to rough it! There are no rules but one—the journey is the destination!

Traveling in India can be an absolutely heady experience, if you are determined not to get squeamish at less than ideal situations. Even if you have lived in India all your life, this ‘land of paradoxes’ still has a few surprises up her sleeve! Every state has something unusual to offer, but I suggest you choose your trail depending on the state of your soul!

The wild

Yes, we are talking about combating the forces of nature with nothing but our puny selves and never-say-die spirits. Though you may not be called to slay wild animals along the way, trekking the Dzongri trail and the Garhwal hills takes some gumption, if you aren’t an experienced trekker.

It’s all about taking paradise with a pinch of salt and an experienced guide. Hiring a guide in Dzongri or Garhwal is easier said than done as both are popular trekking trails and almost every second local happens to be a guide!

The Dzongri trail through West Sikkim starts off at Yuksom and takes you through thickly forested ridges. The paradisiacal views that greet you at every turn are well worth your aching body. Keep your eyes open for the yak pastures, the Teesta River, the beautiful Frey’s Peak and the many glaciers. And don’t panic if a yak casually saunters into your path because your guide will know all the winning moves.

Once you reach Bakhim, you can regale your tired limbs with “toomba,” the local liquor. Mountaineers and experienced trekkers can move on from Bakhim to Dzongri but if you are abiding by the golden rule, take it slow. Camp at Pethang if you are inclined to romance the stars, but if you’d rather have a roof over your head, try the Forest Rest House, which is surprisingly nominal, and start early next morning. From Pethang, the journey to Dzongri gets much easier and you should be able to make it in a few hours. As for the view from the Dzongri Peak, it is best experienced in person.

While the Dzongri trail has an element of atavistic, untrammeled beauty about it, the Garhwal hills are less brash. Dzongri shows off her beauty with wild abandon while Garhwal has a charming, irresistible reserve. This mystical allure characterizes everything in Garhwal—be it the peaks with their quiet strength of character or the langurs you meet along the way that eye you with an arrogant, lazy elegance.

Consisting of the districts of Uttarkashi, Tehri-Garhwal, Pauri-Garhwal, Dehra Dun and Chamoli, the Garhwal hills have something to offer everyone. There are spectacular views to woo those who are seeking sheer beauty. For the spiritually minded, there are scores of popular temple pilgrimages and hilltop temples, not to mention the umpteen chances you get at every turn to share a quiet communion with nature. And while the botanist will delight in the vast treasure-house of plants, bird watchers will be captivated by the sheer profusion of birds. As for the budding writer, Garhwal will inspire you to the heights of eloquence!

Accommodation can be found at the trekkers’ huts, dharmasalas or the many Forest Rest Houses along the way. The FRHs themselves are worth the visit as most of them have been maintained to retain the charm of the British Raj and you come away with the romantic feeling of having flirted with a bygone era. The high point of the trip is the short trek from Binsar to the Jhandi Dhar Zero Point from where you get the most magnificent view of the Nanda Devi mountains.

The mellow

Coonoor, Kalimpong and Kallar are ideal getaways if you are looking for a small, quiet place to laze around. With all the charisma afforded by a typical town and yet untouched by the commercialization that characterizes the better known Ooty, Darjeeling and Munnar, these three hillside towns capture all the flavour and allure of an Enid Blyton novel!

Coonoor is famous for Sims Park, Dolphin’s Nose and Lamb’s Rock. You can start trekking from Lamb’s Rock, about 9 kms from Coonoor, and move on to Lady Canning’s Seat. Both spots offer you a spectacular view of tea and coffee estates. Dolphin’s Nose further up gives you a panoramic view of the Catherine Falls and the surrounding countryside, but I found all these charms pale in comparison to the perfect joy afforded by my gastronomical exploits! The home-made chocolates are “truly scrumptious”--from plain chocolate to ginger chocolate-- you can try it all, before you make your final purchase. And Beulah farm has the best home-made wines, made, you are told, without a drop of yeast. It may not get you high, but it is bound to tickle your taste buds.

Kallar, even more ‘small-townish’ than Coonoor,is a recluse’s delight. En route to Munnar, this rustic town has nothing much to boast of except its idyllic charm and a number of gurgling brooks and pretty waterfalls, where you can bathe with no fear of intrusion. And yet, the solitude you encounter is not one that leaves you feeling lonely. Rather, it ensconces you with an inexplicable feeling of cozy self-sufficiency. A trek, if it can be called that, comprises of wading through a brook in a sylvan wood, consorting with leeches and breathing in the strong, sweet smell of a variety of colorful “rock flowers”. I managed to befriend a local, who took me to her quaint little underground home. There are even underground restaurants and tea-shops, so make sure you visit one. The hot, steaming ‘puttu’ and ‘kadala’ is worth a try!

Kalimpong is a romantic’s dream come true! Smiling lamas, chanting boy monks, quaint monasteries, colonial bungalows, the Gompa style St. Theresa’s church showing Biblical characters in Tibetan style, the towering russet coloured oaks, rolling green meadows bursting with a riot of colors, dazzling, wild orchid fields and exotic views of snow capped mountains—this is one destination that you will never regret. The old world charm that meets you at every corner is not something that you experience from the outside—rather, the minute you land you too seem to have made a tryst with eternity. You see it in the eyes of the lithesome young girls serving you piping hot tea, in the unsmiling plea of the little boys offering you a yak or donkey ride and in the undulating hills which make you uncertain if they are shutting you out or in. The one thing that will bring you back to reality however is the cuisine—a delightful assortment of Tibetan, Chinese and Indian foods. The ‘haat bazaar’ is also a must-see, especially if you are looking for souvenirs. Kalimpong is also famous for its cheese, thanks to the Jesuit missionaries who established the dairy industry. And do ask for the delectable “Father Booties” to carry back home!

The retrospective

If wandering in the bylanes of yesterday rings a chord with you and you like to linger in museums imagining yourself in an era that has long been over or if you’d rather watch History Channel instead of last season’s blockbuster, Madhya Pradesh and Pondicherry are just about right for you!

MP is not called the heart of India for nothing. Home to the cultural heritage of Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism and Islam, MP is an exquisite state, a sight seer’s paradise. Be it the inspired carvings at Sanchi, the fort at Gwalior described as "the pearl amongst the fortresses of Hind", the superb paintings at Bagh, or the remains of the ancient civilization at Bhimbetka—each is steeped in legends so romantic, so vivid and compelling that you almost wish you had lived then instead of now! And if dramatic history does not entice you, there are spectacular mountain ranges, meandering rivers and miles and miles of dense forests and wildlife sanctuaries to capture your heart. Madhya Pradesh has still retained the flavour of its tribal past. The colourful Maria drummers wearing their bison horn masks and feather crowns invite you to swing along to their aboriginal martial tunes. In the state of Dewas, I volunteered with an organization that works with the Bhils and Gonds and was offered ‘paaniya’, a local dish baked on cowdung cakes. You come away with the distinct impression of a state that is yet to catch up with the rest of India.

Pondicherry, has a subtle flavour like no other place in India. At first glance though, there seems to be nothing retrospective about Pondicherry. The first few miles down the East Coast Road might leave you feeling quite disappointed. But then, you see a policeman dressed like a French gendarme—complete with a red pillbox hat. As you turn the corner, you gaze in delight at high columns, wide promenades, sprawling courtyards, high walls and neatly laid roads cutting each other at ninety degrees and realize with a rush of excitement that Pondicherry is all that the travelogues declared it to be! Once the capital of erstwhile French India, this “sleepy provincial French Town” has indeed kept alive its French connection. Opposite a typical South Indian Restaurant, you’ll find a ‘bistro’, and many a ‘rue’ and ‘boulevard’ conspire to satiate your desire to see “a little piece of France in India”! Cruise down sun-kissed beaches, explore the delicious French cuisine, shop for leather and other souvenirs at the famous Auroville, and fill up your senses with a lifetime worth of memories of arches and arcades!

The flamboyant

Calcutta, Rajasthan and Goa are a sensualist’s delight. Each city in its own way assaults your senses in a deep way. Calcutta and Rajasthan hit you with their atmosphere of a tenacious celebration of the past, while Goa delights you with its bohemian, irreverent charm.

Calcutta is often associated with squalor and filth, yet, what captures your attention and your heart in spite of these drawbacks, is the indefinable something that pervades the air. Calcutta is perhaps the only metro that has not been over-eager to exchange her colonial heritage for modernity. That is not to say that everything about Calcutta is passé. The posh Park Street is in no way inferior to the glories of another metro. Neither are Bengalis old fashioned nor conservative in their ideas and thinking. But Calcutta seems to have hung on tenaciously to the remains of yesterday in a way that you find irresistible. The streets are narrow, the buildings old and in many cases dilapidated, the trams are a nuisance to city traffic and yet, there’s something about Calcutta’s soul that leaves a deep impression. New Market is a wonderful place to shop, or window shop as the case may be, as you can strike some really satisfying bargains. The roadside dhabas and Chinese Market give a whole new meaning to fine dining (the gol guppas are unforgettable, as long as you choose to forget about the cleanliness of the water), the trams are packed, but a quintessential part of Calcutta. Yet other places of interest are the Birla Planetarium, the Marble Palace, Tagore’s house, now a museum, the Science City and Victoria Memorial. And if you have a streak of the bibliophile in you, you’ll certainly appreciate College Street, which is probably the world’s largest outdoor book market.

Unlike Calcutta’s nostalgic ambience of a lingering past, Rajasthan is entrenched in tradition and folk-lore. The vibrant colors and architecture loudly proclaim an alliance with a colorful, interesting past. Since the places you’d like to visit lie far apart, Rajasthan can be difficult terrain. Yet, every city in Rajasthan has a story to tell and it’s difficult to pick and choose. But if you must, don’t miss out on Jaipur, Jaisalmer and make the short trip to Agra. Jaipur, popularly known as the “Pink City”, is the capital and worth visiting for its Amber Fort, Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds), City Palace Museum and the Observatory. A night’s journey away lies Jaisalmer, with its exciting camel rides on sand dunes and the famed havelis. If you want to pick up souvenirs, you’ll be boggled by the options. The bazaars capture your senses by their extravagant display of colors. Intricate work carved on metal and other materials, the wonders of gems and jewelry, fabrics with silver or gold threads and complemented with a variety of beads, Gota, Zari, Zardosi, Banarasi, Rajasthan is a haven for those interested in arty picks.

There’s something about Goa that makes you want to break free. It’s infectious with its boundless zest for living. There seems to be an unspoken yet understood maxim that Goa abides by—eat and be merry, carpe diem, joie the vivre or something along those lines! There’s a sense of hedonistic abandon that is very appealing. The shacks at Anjuna and Vagator are favorite haunts among tourists, especially the ones who can swig their ‘feni’, without batting an eyelid. And yet, Goa is not just the destination of the Dionysian tribe, there are enough placid, sun-kissed beaches to appease the tourist seeking solitude, and cuisine that will woo the palate of the foodie. For the incurable shopper, there are the traditional Goan markets selling irresistible “little somethings” that you’ll be tempted to sneak into that backpack. And for those seeking a rendezvous with art and culture, there are a plethora of temples, churches and old houses that are an interesting reminder of Portuguese culture. And as you walk along the streets in the evening, you hear the wistful strains of a guitar or mouth organ—reminding you that in spite of the here and now, you are an amalgam of forgotten tunes and distant memories. And you tell yourself that you will be back – back to take a second, deeper look.

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Does wildlife excite you?

Visit the Bannerghatta National Park near Bangalore
Watch the Bengal tigers at Bandhavgarh National Park and Ranthambore
Take a trip to Kabini, a veritable natural paradise
Explore the exotic wildlife around Coorg
Do not miss the mangroves at Sunderban in West Bengal
Take in the spectacular views at Masinagudi
Catch a glimpse of the one horned rhino at Kaziranga
Visit Ranikhet near Corbett National Park
Do not miss Coorg and its wonderous natural beauty

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Remya writes for chillibreeze.

Traveling Through India chillibreeze writer — Remya Abraham

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Traveling Through India

chillibreeze writer — Remya Abraham