Devprayag: A Vacation by the Ganges

chillibreeze writer — Deepali Sharma Sanwal

The boisterous and strong Bhagirathi River gushes down from the one side and the calm and quiet Alaknanda flows in from the other, merging to form what we know as the as the holy Ganges River. This is one of the five sacred confluences in the hills of Uttarankhand and the place is Devprayag, a small town in the Tehri district.

As I travel along the Ganges from Rishikesh to Devprayag, my paternal village, I am overwhelmed with a feeling of belonging and nostalgia, as I remember my childhood days, spent running around in the mango orchards and trekking to nearby hills. As a child, I had done this journey every summer with my parents to visit my grandparents.

Years later, I wanted to relive the experience and decided to do away with my car and jumped into a local bus. As our bus passed the Laxman Jhula in Rishikesh and moved up the meandering roads, the driver put on pahari music which seemed to resonate in the valleys all around. I could hear myself humming to the tunes I had grown up listening to.

Located at a height of 2265 feet, Devprayag is a small town of religious importance to the pilgrims of the Char Dham darshan. In old days, when the pilgrimage was done on foot, people used to stop here for a dip in the holy waters of Ganga, a tradition that is still considered scared. One can find the local people taking the holy dip on various important days of the Hindu calendar.

Once a small sleepy town, mainly of religious importance, Devprayag today has much more to offer. For those who are looking for adventure, spiritualism or just a relaxed time away from the hustle-bustle of city life, it is a perfect place, largely unexplored so far.

Start the day with a visit to the famous Raghunath temple. Some inscriptions carved are supposed to be from around the 5th century. If you go there during the festive seasons of Basant Panchmi, you can witness the famous fair in the temple courtyard where people from near by places come to pray and enjoy.

An excursion from Devprayag can take one to Chandrabadni temple, 22 km away. A 10 km trek from Kandi khal, the temple is considered very scared by the local and visited frequently after the conclusion of any important chore. Located at a height of 2277 meters, there is a magnificent view of the valley below.

A small drive from here is the Tehri Dam: a sight worth seeing as it demonstrates how man, with the help of science and technology, can change the direction of the strongest of rivers and cut through the mightiest of mountains. A small part of the old Tehri town that got submerged in water could still be seen when I went there last summer. It gives a mixed feeling of astonishment, joy and some sense of loss.

One's heart goes out to those who have given up their sense of identity, belongingness and homes for the better and brighter future of thousands who benefit from such large projects. The residents of the old town are now rehabilitated into a modern “New Tehri” town. For those interested in catching a glimpse of the folk and culture of the place, ask the hotel manager to arrange for a local dance. Manyaan, as it is known is a dance form where people dance in circles on the beats of the dhol.

Though much has changed, certain beliefs still linger on. It is said that some people get possessed by gods and goddesses when they hear the drums and then they foretell the future. This is something I have seen since my childhood days, but my logical mind does not allow me to believe it. However, I can reason out scientifically that there could be vibrations in the body that the power of music generates. But whether you wish to believe it or not, one thing is for sure, that at times, the sight can be a tad too scary. But this is a rare thing and it is best to just join the dancing group and groove to the pahari moves.

Devprayag is a place where one can go for a weekend or spend a day or two while en route to the higher reaches of the Himalayas. People halt here on their way to a pilgrimage to the char-dham or if they are proceeding for trekking.

Since the place is relatively small, it does not have big shops like other hill stations. But one can enjoy local delicacies and sweets like bal mithai, jalebi and singuri in the eateries near the bus stand. A walk through the narrow by-lanes of the town and gives you a glimpse of the lives of the simple, hill people.

Though the food is generally simple, it is very tasty, being made with minimal spices and yet mouthwatering. Do not expect exotic dishes but simple food with great taste served with a smile. One thing that cannot be missed out is the hospitality of the locals. The simplicity of the pahari people, their dressing, their food and lifestyle is well reflected in this no-frills place.

When I got into the bus to return to Delhi, I felt rejuvenated and refreshed. The two day visit had infused a new sense of life in me so that I could carry on with the hectic and frenzied ways of city life till I next visited my roots.

FACT FILE

Where to stay

The Garhwal Mandal Vikas Nigam rest house, located about a kilometre ahead of the main market is a peaceful stay option. There are other newly opened private resorts with modern amenities. They also organize trips and excursions on request. Though the traffic is relatively low during off peak season, it is still a good idea to make an advance booking.

Best time to visit

The best time to visit the place depends up on the kind of tourist one is. For the pilgrims, generally the peak season is in summer. However, due to its low altitude, it gets warm during the day time, though nights can be pleasant. For the sporty and adventurous, end-January to April is a good time for rafting. And if you want to enjoy nature and have a relaxed time, winters are the best to just bask in the bright sun, sipping tea and reading a novel. The water of the Ganges is blue and crystal clear in winters. The place is good for any time of the year except peak monsoon. There could be land slides along the way leading to traffic blockages.

Getting there

A ten-hour road journey from Delhi. The nearest rail head is in Rishikesh or Dehradun. The nearest airport is at Dehradun. Air Deccan flies twice daily from Delhi.

What to do

Rafting, trekking, nature trails, meditation and relaxation.

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