With summer round the corner it made sense to take off for cooler climes just before the place got flocked with tourists from the plains. My destination of choice was the sylvan state of Himachal Pradesh, nestled in the Himalayas in North India. Often touted as an alternative to Kashmir, it does offer a glimpse of the more sumptuous treasures of the Valley.
There is plenty for the tourist to savor in these parts. From the capital Shimla’s, quaint colonial charm to the tranquility in the Tirthan Valley, life here moves at its own pace. The outside world can be kept at arms length, for a few days at least!
Colonial relics in Shimla:
Steep curving paths lead you from one remnant of colonial India to another. This quaint hill town was the summer capital of British India where the rulers took a break from the sweltering heat of the plains. Time moves slowly here and certain scenes can still match those that were clicked more than 50 years ago.
Promenading on the mall is still the major pastime. I relished the fact that much of the mall still retains its quaint old-world feel with sloping tin roofs and wooden exteriors. In it a Chinese shoe shop continues to deliver handmade shoes to its Shimla clientele. India Coffee House offers refuge to the visitor from the south with its idly-sambar and all so famous filter coffee. Baristas and Café Coffee Day, contemporary coffee shops are debutantes in this town. They have restored to the mall a cosmopolitan touch that was the hallmark of Shimla in its heydays.
The mall meets the ridge at Scandal Point, the spot famous as the one where the Maharaja of Patiala kidnapped a British colonel’s daughter and brought her to his harem. The Maharaja was thereafter banned from Shimla.
Further up from here is the quintessential Shimla scene with Christchurch and the public library by its side. A steep lane behind Christchurch winds its way up Jakhu Hill passing notable homes as Rothney Castle, once the residence of A.O. Hume, founder of the Indian National Congress. Warned by locals of the tiresome ways of the monkeys of Jakhu I rented a stick, but the simians made only a guest appearance that day at the temple on the summit.
After observing present day Shimla, it indeed takes a leap of imagination to think that this used to be the epicenter of the Great Game, the tussle for Afghanistan between Russia and British India. But it was in this very maze of lanes, angled at 45 degrees, and cottages perched precariously on the slopes that plans and counter plans of espionage were hatched.
Walking west down the mall leads to the celebrated edifice of British India. What was once the Viceregal Lodge is today the Indian Institute of Advanced Studies. It was from here that British India was governed for half the year. Imposing, as only a Gothic structure can be, it sits in splendid isolation amidst sprawling grounds well away from the hustle and bustle of the town. Its cavernous central hall, paneled in Burma teak from floor to ceiling, surely must have made the perfect setting for Lord Curzon, one of the viceroys, to hold court!
Traveling downhill from Shimla affords a panoramic view of the Himalayas with towering peaks and deep valleys, glimpses of the Sutlej River passing through on its way to Punjab.
Walk in the Tirthan Valley:
Nothing beats a trek to delight in the picture postcard views of the Himalayas and to interact with the friendly villagers who live in its shadow. Expecting to cover the distance by bus, a sudden change of plans on the bus driver’s part had me trekking 10 km in the Tirthan Valley along the trout-rich Tirthan River. It was a rare glimpse into life the way it is lived here; simple and uncomplicated sans too many modern amenities and distractions. Eking out a living from their land, the villagers in Sai Ropa, Nagni and Gushaini seemed a cheerful lot, smiling and talking readily.
Cozy wooden cottages set amidst green patches of land dotted both banks of the river. A few flowering apricot trees enhanced the picture postcard look. Rosy cheeked children skipped along with their goats while older folk went about their errands in a time honored fashion. I passed a woman bent almost double carrying her heavy load of firewood in a basket on her back. Lunch here was noodles and omelets rustled up by a corner shop.
Snowy peak and thickly forested slopes mark out the Great Himalayan National Park. Exotic wildlife and pristine wilderness beckoned but alas, it’s something I had to postpone for another day.
Memories of the Roerichs at Naggar: Naggar, the old capital of kingdom of Kullu, is where the famous Russian artist Nikolai Roerich settled down with his family after their expedition through Central Asia ended in India. This small town, in between Kullu and Manali, attracts visitors for its art gallery and museum that showcase the life and work of Nikolai Roerich, and to some extent that of his son Svetoslav who later settled down in Bangalore with the actress Devika Rani. The couple, in fact, returned every summer to Naggar.
The lower level of their cottage showcases their paintings (mostly Himalayan themes) while the upper portion offers a glimpse into the life of the Roerichs. On display are furniture and objects of art they used in their lifetime. Situated above the house is Urusvati (the light of the morning star), the Himalayan Research Institute set up by the Roerichs to further delve into Himalayan and Central Asian history and folklore. An impressive collection is housed here, though one wishes that the work initiated by the Roerichs should have been continued with vigor rather be fossilized in the ambience of a museum.
The walk from town to the Roerich estate offered some spectacular sun-drenched views of the Kullu Valley. I could now appreciate why it’s called the Valley of the Gods. Snow capped peaks drenched in the afternoon sunlight towered over the valley. The winding road found its way down lazily. The River Beas glistened like a silver ribbon. Time stood still and normal human hustle and bustle stood dwarfed in the presence of the mighty and magical Himalayas.
It was fortuitous that I ended up staying at Raison, a village on the way from Kullu to Manali, rather than either of the crowded tourist centers. Himachal Tourism’s Nature Notes Adventure Resort offers huts on the banks of the Beas River with some stunning views of the mountains. It is far away from the hustle and bustle, yet close enough to wherever you want to go. You can also indulge in a host of adventure sports during your stay here. This place provides the perfect ambience for a welcome break to restore the mind and the body.
Chillibreeze's disclaimer: The views and opinions expressed in this article are those of the author(s) and do not reflect the views of Chillibreeze as a company. Chillibreeze has a strict anti-plagiarism policy. Please contact us to report any copyright issues related to this article.
Out of 5 “chilies”, our editorial team gave this article...
—About our writer:
Rajeev Yeshwanth is a Bangalore-based freelance writer. He has multimedia experience and is interested in all things developmental. His goal is to carve a niche for himself in the field of writing.
>> Read more articles written by Chillibreeze writers:
Chillibreeze offers Indian writers the opportunity to work on customer projects. We are also India’s biggest writer network and a one-stop shop for Indian writers and editors. The writers’ section on Chillibreeze offers freelance writers and editors a variety of tools to advance their careers. Resources for writers include:
