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Kuda Huraa Resort, Maldives
Need an editable PowerPoint map of India You could argue that Queensland’s vast marine scene can’t be beaten and more varied geographical appeal exists down south in mountainous Mauritius – but is there really a more idyllic place than the Maldives? From Male’s narrow water-wedged airstrip and the innumerable buzzing amphibious seaplanes, to the speed-boat jetties for taxi ranks and teeming plant and marine life, the high-flying, low-lying Maldives is riddled with charming inconsistencies. The airport did have its hotel-placard-wavers and a humble open-air café – the kind you might find at a provincial bus station – but they were probably put there as tokens of normality. Despite attracting flights from all corners of the globe, a break in the Maldives still has an air of exclusivity. Just describing the facts can seem fanciful: after landing and taking a 20-second bus ride to the terminal, your sleek white speedboat is waiting to whisk you off to your five-star resort. We’re off to the Four Seasons Kuda Huraa – it decadently occupies the whole island – which is only a half hour’s journey east but one hour ahead of Malé time. On board the speedboat, it’s much like a mini-aircraft experience: while you’re getting the chilled water, cold towels and life-jacket treatment, the staff is busy loading your trolley bags at the back. After pulling slowly out of the harbour, the engines crank up and soon the boat’s bouncing and cracking over the waters, white whiskers of jet-spray darting past the windows. It could be a scene from James Bond, only without a hint of villainy. Despite the boat’s urgency, most guests seem unperturbed, mesmerised at the numerable outcrops and life-less islands (only 200 of the 1,190 islands are inhabited). In any event, most guests aren’t looking for speed, just somewhere to slip their minds into neutral. Once the boat finally changed down to a speed more in keeping with the sedate surroundings, we stepped out onto the dedicated jetty next to the idyllic island spa – yes, even that commands a transfer – where we were all personally greeted by the resort manager. When was the last time that happened in a city hotel? Then it’s a short walk towards the secluded reception through densely covered tropical vegetation. The Ultimate Hotel Guide describes the Kuda Huraa resort as “the Prada bag of the Maldives, devoid of sight-seers and day-trippers” and it’s certainly not your average hotel. The reception is decked in traditional high-beam wood thatching, with not a window in sight, and check-in is carried out at snail’s pace in comfortable chairs around 20 feet away from the desk. After the brief formalities, staff then whisk you off to your water or villa bungalow in a buggy – the villas have indulgent pools and beach-side/resort access while the water ones, at the end of the resort’s linear-style design, are dotted along stand-alone wooden platforms to ensure maximum privacy. Once the door shuts, this is it – quintessential Maldives: just you, your partner and the gently rippling ocean for company; the silence is so pervasive and calming, you soon forget all about the outside world. Even more so, once you’ve sunk under the silk-curtain-wrapped bed or slipped into the bath, both of which afford expansive ocean views. Steps lead from the balcony into the ocean so you can nip off for a snorkel, swim or paddle anytime. You don’t have to be an Olympic swimmer to enjoy the marine life. Wander in barely ankle-deep and you’ll see species such as the multi-coloured Picasso Triggerfish or black-striped Sergeant Major caressing the beachside rock pools. If you had to sum up the Maldives in two words, it would have to be ‘clarity and colours’. Such is the abundance of underwater life that even aquaphobics can have a good time – keep your eyes peeled for the giant rays which sweep majestically under the bungalow or, come sunset, wander along to the end of the beach and you might see a shoal or two baby reef sharks feed on restaurant scraps. Those who want to get out and about also have the option of boarding the Four Seasons Explorer, a luxury 128-foot catamaran whose three, four or seven night cruises take in deserted and populated islands. Divers and non-divers are ferried to and from the islands in motorised dinghies and those who just want to kick back and have an on-deck massage, watch DVDs on their cabin TV or attend a marine lecture, held each day in the comfortably furnished library. Excellent meals are served each day, along with ‘sundowner’ drinks each evening out on deck. It’s all so laid back that you might forget to your shoes back on for those return transfers to reality. A water bungalow in the Four Seasons Kuda Huraa costs $745 a night during January and February, and a three-night cruise in a stateroom on the Four Seasons Explorer costs $1,680 per person.
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