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Taj Mahal: The Highlight of Agra

Travel India- Taj Mahal- Agra chillibreeze writerSandhya Reddy

Each day, hundreds of people from all over the world marvel at the Taj Mahal.  It is one of the 7 wonders of the world along with the Pyramids, the Grand Canyon, the Eiffel Tower, the Sydney Opera House and the Houses of Parliament, but it stands apart from the others: as it was built for love.  When you get there, you will realize why the Taj Mahal is the Taj Mahal, un-paralleled in beauty and magnificence.

Agra is accessible from Delhi by Road, Air and Rail.  The Indian Government has laid out wonderful roads to reach Agra and Jaipur from Delhi, and this is called the Golden Triangle.  One can reach Agra from Delhi by road in 4 hrs.  I happened to be in Delhi for a few days in May 2003 and I supposed one day was enough to visit the Taj Mahal.  I was traveling with my brother.  We hired a cab, and left Delhi in the morning.  Our agenda was fixed - Taj Mahal, Sikandra and Agra Fort in one day. 

Agra used to be the capital of the Moghul rulers who ruled India from the 15th Century to the 18th century, until the time of Bahadur Shah Zafar.  The Taj Mahal was built in 1631, by Shah Jehan in memory of his beloved wife Mumtaj Mahal, who died giving birth to their 14th child.  It took about 20 yrs and 20,000 craftsmen to construct the Taj Mahal.  There are several gory stories attached to the construction as well, apart from the romantic angle.  It is believed that Shah Jehan got the best of the craftsmen for the job, but, once the job was done, the hands of the craftsmen were cut off, to ensure that they did not replicate the same work of art elsewhere.  Sadistic!

The architect was called in from Iran and the original plan also included a Black Taj Mahal on the other side of the Yamuna River, like a mirror image, which would house Shah Jehan's tomb.  But, the black one was destined to be just a dream. 

Shah Jehan chose this place on the bank of the river Yamuna, for a couple of reasons.  The river curved in this place, and hence in the small island that was created, he wanted to build the Taj.  The building along with its reflection in the river would provide a breath taking view.  The river water was required for the gardens and the several fountains that were to be there.  Shah Jehan could see the Taj Mahal from his fort in Agra.  During the latter part of his life, Shah Jehan was imprisoned by his tyrant son, Aurangzeb, who became emperor following his victory in the war of succession. 

Shah Jehan was detained in a small room in his fort, from where he could see the Taj. After his death, he was buried in a grave beside his wife Mumtaj, and therefore this is the only asymmetrical part of the Taj. 

Who hasn’t seen pictures of the Taj? The beautiful image that you bear in your mind will only be enhanced by your visit. The Taj Mahal has a main dome in the center with 4 minarets.  There are two mosques on both the sides, but only one of them is used now.  The Entire complex is on a huge marble platform.  There is a beautiful garden in front of the Taj, with several waterways and fountains.  The faces of the walls have intricate designs with precious stones embedded in them (most of them stolen by miscreants through the ages).  The Koran is engraved on it too, and it is done in such a way that all the verses are readable by a man standing in front of them on the floor, and they look like they are of the same size, no matter how high on the wall they are engraved. 

Lots of photographers and guides hover in front of the complex.  You can get very fancy photographs of yourself, holding the minaret of the Taj in your hand and stuff like that, for about Rs.50. There is bench in front of the Taj where most tourists get a snap of themselves in front of the Taj Mahal (Princess Diana and Bill Clinton, of course on separate occasions got themselves photographed this way too).

One needs to be careful with touts in Agra and their attitude.  They might attract you with sweet words and finally cheat you of some money. Of course, this is a regular thing with all tourist spots and one can just act uninterested to drive the eager faces away. You can take a horse cart from the starting point of Taj Mahal, after which no taxi or any other vehicle is allowed. Stop to inquire and within no time, you will find that you are surrounded by the locals, each vying for your attention. Just get onto one cart and ignore the others. You will also see vendors who will show you marble inlayed boxes, shawls, carved stuff, leather whips, carpets and all kinds of curios. They will tell you that they are all original.  The first quoted rate for let’s say, a marble carved and stone inlayed box, would be Rs. 500 and in the end, you might be able to buy it for Rs. 100 if you bargain enough.  Again like any other tourist destination in India.

The other places worth seeing in Agra are the Agra Fort and Sikandra – the place where Akbar is buried.  Akbar started constructing the fort, but additions were made by every successor.  Shah Jehans additions were in Marble and you will see his marble obsession here too.  But, one has to agree that his buildings are the most attractive, because on white marble background, the inlay designs look magnificient.  Inside the Agra Fort complex are Jehangir Mahal, Jodha Bhai Mahal ( Jodha Bai was Akbars Rajput Wife ), Moti Mahal, Shah Jehans Khas Mahal, Diwan – e- Khas ( Hall for Private Audience ), Diwan – e- Am ( Hall for Public Audience) and others.  There is a moat with huge entrances.  There is lot of restoration work going on to keep the place intact for posterity. One thing you wouldn’t want to miss is the view of the Taj Mahal from the Agra fort. Miniscule as it may look, the view gives you an idea of how his dream building appeared to Shah Jehan in his last days.

Sikandra, the Tomb of Akbar was designed by Akbar and subsequently built by Jehangir, his son and successor.  The building is made of Red Sandstone and has intricately carved designs on its walls. Apparently this entrance resembles the Bulund Darwaza (Indomitable gate- the tallest fort gateway in India) in Fatehpur Sikri (a must see city near Agra if you have sufficient time).  Surmounted by four minarets, it is overlaid with colored tiles that bear inscriptions from the Koran. The inside of the vaulted roof was once done in gold and blue to resemble the heavens. (Only a single section has been restored but it is enough to suggest the beauty of what once was.) A chapter from the Koran runs around the cornices. Akbar lies in a subterranean crypt inside the mausoleum across from an alabaster tablet inscribed with the 99 names of Allah. A single ray of light illuminates the sepulchre which is otherwise cloaked in a quiet darkness. This place is beautiful, and don’t miss it even if you have to make a short visit.

We had seen the most of the places we had on our list, and as it was already 6 pm in the evening, it was time to leave for Delhi.  We knew leaving at 6 pm, we would reach Delhi at 10 pm, and if we delayed any further, it would be too late for dinner. We bought a small marble box with an intricate inlay design for my mom who loves to collect such things.  The drive to Delhi was smooth and we reached there just in time for that all-important dinner in one of Delhi’s dhabas (informal outdoor restaurants with yummy authentic food).  We have all made a promise to ourselves- A promise to visit Agra again when we can.

Getting There:

Air: A 40 minute flight from Delhi

Road: 4 hrs drive. 203 km

Train: Delhi Agra Shatabdi is the best option.  But, Agra is well connected from all the nearby cities.  Getting to Agra is never really a problem.

Best time of the Year: Summers can get very hot and winters can get unbearably chilly. Best time to visit is between March to October.

Trip duration: As long as you care to stay. 2-3 days would be good.

Accommodation: If you are going to Agra from Delhi on a single day road trip like us (we recommend you stay longer to enjoy all Agra has to offer), then you can get back to Delhi the same night. If you wish to say there in the night, you can stay at these places.

Taj View, Man Singh Palace, Amar Vilas, Trident, Holiday Inn and numerous other places (These are some of the best ones).

More information about Agra can be obtained from:

The government Of India Tourist Office - 191, the Mall, Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India. Tel. - +(91) - 0562 - 363959.

UP State Tourism Development Corporation - Tourist Bungalow, Raja-ki- Mandi, Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India. Tel. - +(91) - 0562 -350120

Tourist Information Center - UP tourist office, 64 Taj Road, Uttar Pradesh, India Tel. - +(91) - 0562 - 360517

Tourist Information Counter - Agra Cantonment Railway Station, Agra, Uttar Pradesh, India Tel. - +(91) - 0562 - 368598

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