A Pilgrimage to Sabarimala

chillibreeze writer — R K Rao

It has Marx turn in his grave, feminists and environmentalists run into rage and sociologists go ga ga. And millions upon millions of devotees burst into spiritual ecstasy. Yes, you have guessed it right. It is the explosively popular hill shrine of Sabarimala nestled amidst the picturesque forests of Western Ghats in southern Kerala. After Tirupati in Andhra Pradesh and Guruvayur in Kerala, Sabarimala is the most prosperous pilgrim centre in India. Popular playback singer Yesudas and the well known Bollywood star Amitabh Bachhan are among the staunchest devotees of Lord Ayyappa, the beatific presiding deity of Sabarimala.

In the 1960s, when the popularity of Sabarimala was confined to the state of Kerala, many of the diehard Marxists would pledge family jewelry to undertake the strenuous trek to the hill shire of the celibate deity. Because females between 10 and 50 years are not allowed to visit the hill shrine, women’s groups in various parts of South India have been crying hoarse over this “sacred gender discrimination”. For the eco activists, the degradation of the forest stretches and pollution of the Pampa river, skirting the base of the majestic Neelimalai Mountains atop which the sanctuary of Ayyappa nestles, by the unchecked flood of pilgrims thronging the shrine during the peak pilgrim season between mid November and mid January, is a matter of serious concern.

However, sociologists are all for the Ayyappa cult known for its leveling influence by breaking down the barriers of caste and community. For every Ayyappa devotee sports a black or blue garment, grows a beard and keeps his hair unkempt and submerges his individual identity in the stream of devotion to Ayyappa. Whenever two of them meet, they gleefully exchange the chant “Swamiyae Saranam Ayyappa (Lord Ayyappa is refuge) although the two might not have had even a nodding acquaintance. In recent years, an increasing number of Muslims and Christians have been joining the pilgrim caravan to Sabarimala. What is more, devotees from countries such as Australia, USA, UK, Belgium, Portugal and Israel make a regular trek to the abode of Ayyappa, year after year. The most recent phenomenon is that of many Hindi speaking software professionals working in South India taking a vow of pilgrimage to Sabarimala.

The cult’s booming growth is reflected in the phenomenal increase in the number of pilgrims who make a trek to the hill shrine. By 1970, fewer than two million had visited Sabarimala. But at the close of pilgrim season in January 2008, more than 50-million had visited this holy spot. However, unlike other Hindu shrines, the Ayyappa temple is kept open for a few days close to the end and beginning of each Malayalam month. Fairly large numbers of pilgrims also visit the shrine on the occasion of Vishu, the Malayalam New Year day and Onam, Kerala’s harvest festival. The peak pilgrim season coincides with “Mandala Pooja” falling between mid-November and December-end and “Makara Vilakku” in January.

Specifically, pilgrimage to Sabarimala is not for those with weak hearts. For the pilgrims following the traditional route covering a distance of around 50-kms, need to move bare-foot through thick forests and across high mountains. However, an increasing number of pilgrims are now resorting to “short cuts” by directly reaching the banks of Pampa from where a 5-m long trek across the Neelimalai mountain takes them to the sanctuary of Ayyappa also known as Dharma Sastha (Lord of Verities). It is also customary for pilgrims to visit the other major temples in Kerala.

A pilgrimage to Sabarimala is unique in more ways than one. Devotees have to observe a stringent code of puritanical practices for 41 days preceding the pilgrimage. Abstinence from liquor, celibacy, a strict vegetarian diet and going around bare foot are some of the vows undertaken. Devotees must bathe both in the morning and evening and keep away from social activities by spending time in spiritual exercise. At the beginning of the pilgrim season in mid-November, the devotes wear a garland of Rudraksha beads in a temple ceremony conducted by a senior pilgrim called “Guruswamy”.

The sanctity of Sabarimala is enhanced by the fact that besides being the seat of Lord Ayyappa, it is believed to be the scene of various incidents narrated in the Ramayana. According to locals, it was at this sacred mount that Lord Rama granted darshan (audience) to Sabari who was performing a unique penance here. According to another legend, Ayyappa is the offspring of the union between Shiva and Vishnu in the form of Mohini or divine enchantress. As such he is called Hari Hara Putra.

After 41 days of strict observance of austerities, the pilgrim readies himself for the epic trek to Sabarimala by performing “Irumudi” ceremony—a ritual-filled, time-consuming affair held in the local shrine. Irumudi is essentially a two-in-one travel kit which the pilgrim has to carry on his head while walking barefoot to Sabarimala. While the front portion of Irumudi contains holy articles to be offered to Lord Ayyappa, the hind portion is meant to hold the personal needs of the pilgrims like clothes, blankets etc. The main offerings to Lord Ayyappa — ghee filled coconuts, rice, betel leaves, camphor and plantains — go into the front portion of Irumudi. Once the Irumudi kit is ready, the pilgrim leaves the local shrine by breaking a coconut on the doorstep.

Normally, pilgrims go to Sabarimala in groups headed by a senior pilgrim who acts as guide and spiritual mentor through the pilgrimage. Hundreds of thousands of black and blue robed pilgrims tumultuously shouting “Swamiaye Saranam Ayyappa” pour into the sleepy little town of Erumeli, the traditional gateway to the trek to Sabarimala. As a prelude to the tough trek, the pilgrims assume the role of a hunter by smearing their bodies with colors and tying belts of foliage round their waists. Then they begin to dance ecstatically around the streets of Erumeli. This dance is said to be in commemoration of an event involving Lord Ayyappa’s return to Erumeli as a hunter. The colorful street dance called Petta Thullal concludes at the mosque of Vavara, who according to legend, was a Muslim pirate-turned-devotee of Lord Ayyappa.

From here the long march begins with the sea of pilgrims surging up the hills, climbing huge boulders and spilling through the forest stretches harboring wild animals to the banks of the Azhutha river where Ayyappa is said to have performed his cosmic dance.

After a night’s rest, the pilgrims start descending the heights of Azhutha Mountain which is damp and slippery. After a day’s back-breaking trek, the pilgrims reach the base of Karimala hill. A steep climb takes them to the peak of the hill. A sweet water spring here makes it ideal for a day’s rest. Then begins the descent of Karimala leading to the much awaited banks of Pampa in whose waters pilgrims have a dip.

Then bidding a farewell to Pampa, devotees climb the Neelimalai Mountains to reach the temple of Ayyappa. Before climbing the sacred eighteen steps leading to the sanctuary of Ayyappa, pilgrims break coconuts corresponding to the number of times they have gone on a pilgrimage to Sabarimala. Tumultuous cries of “Swamiyae Saranam Ayyappa” coming from millions of throats electrify the atmosphere at the shrine. The sacred eighteen steps of the shrine are held in deep veneration as they symbolize various senses and desires in man and with the climbing of the eighteen steps, the pilgrims symbolically surmount the turbulence of his senses.

On the day of Makara Vilakku — coinciding with Makara Sankranti falling in mid January — as dusk sets in, devotees behold a rare phenomenon. While the priest lights up the lamp before the presiding deity, a luminous streak of resplendent light makes its appearance for a while on the eastern horizon. At the sight of this light, symbolizing the blessings showered by Ayyappa on the awestruck congregation, the pilgrims go into a spiritual frenzy and then for a while the hills and forests reverberate with the chant of “Swamiyae Saranam Ayyappa”.

The pilgrim returns home to his mundane life with the serene feeling of having performed a pious deed. But the irresistible call of Sabarimala — Swamiyae Saranam Ayyappa — reverberates in his heart through his life.

How to Reach Sabarimala: The nearest railhead is Chengannur. However, a pilgrimage can also be started from the district headquarters of Pathanamthitta which is 113 from Thiruvanathnapuram and 142 km from Kochi. Both Thiruvananthapuram and Kochi have airports.

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R K Roa writes for chillibreeze.

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