After Thailand and Cambodia , our next stop was Lao – a forgotten country which, simply put, is like walking into a painting. Between endless expanses of paddy fields with the ubiquitous water buffaloes, incessant croaking of frogs, a dazzling variety of butterflies and birds, large areas of petrified trees, numerous cascades and rapids and the all embracing expanse of the Mekong, one is lost in another world. And this is is only in the south!
The rolling, mist covered hills of the north, lush plateaus with waterfalls tumbling into azure pools in the middle, along with an extremely amiable population make Lao an enchanting destination in South East Asia. For a little bit of historical perspective, Lao also has the distinction of being the most bombed nation in the history of mankind as a result of incessant carpet bombing by the US for nearly 10 long pounding years. It is still evident in a few areas, where the desolate crater-ridden landscape wears a forlorn look. Some areas are still only shaking off the dust. Sombre reminders of the past bear witness to the determination and ingenuity of the people; bomb casings and shells are used in the construction of huts and to store articles. On a more worrying note, thousands of unexploded bombs still lie scattered around and are responsible for many casualties, most of whom are children playing or hunting for frogs.
Since we were coming from Cambodia, our first destination was in the south of Laos - Si Phan Don (Lao for Four Thousand Islands). Getting there is easy as far as the route is concerned but there are “charges” to be paid at both the Cambodia and Lao border checkpoints. It is a minor inconvenience and there's not really too much one can do about it. The border check post guards are quite well disposed to leaving people stranded at the border all day until they finally and reluctantly, pay up. From Cambodia , getting to the islands is relatively straightforward. It takes the best part of an hour to reach the Lao border from Stung Treng in Cambodia. Once paperwork is over its half hour to the nearest town Ban Nakasang – from where we board the boat to the islands. It is better to book the journey from Stung Treng to the island of your choice – most guesthouses offer this. Prices are uniform and it is a good option.
Mention must be made of the concept of time in Lao – if it’s a journey that by normal standards might take an hour – one must be prepared to reach in at least 2 or even 3 hours with plenty of stops along the way for beerlao and food. The Lao people love a slow unfettered life with plenty of rest and refreshment. It might seem strange for those of us used to deadlines and agendas, but after getting used to it there’s no going back really! The poor public transport infrastructure naturally translates into a more challenging but highly rewarding travel experience.
Si Phan Don is a group of islands in the mighty Mekong river. While most of these islands are little more than clumps of vegetation and land, there are larger inhabited areas which are the usual travel destinations. In high season many of these smaller islands are submerged. Don Khong is the largest and most well developed. Don Det and Don Khon are smaller and quaint. The latter two are conveniently connected by a rather incongruous toll bridge – a remnant of French colonialism. More and more backpackers are heading to the smaller islands, and to cater to them a fair bit of construction work, along with the accompanying noise, is underway. Otherwise, the rural way of life here is still relatively preserved. Don Khon would be preferable to Don Det for those looking for a little more quiet.
Accommodation options are fairly standard throughout; there are rows of rooms facing either the sunset or sunrise strip of the island with a pleasing view of the Mekong. Most places offer rooms for 15000 kip (about 2 dollars) for a room with a double bed, mosquito net and small porch with hammocks overlooking the river. Toilets and bathrooms are on a shared basis. The lack of AC however, might inconvenience some people. Though the only electrical supply is by means of a generator between 6 PM - 10PM, it was never missed. In fact, having no electricity for the most part on the island makes it really special.
Food is decently priced - a meal would come to about 2-3 dollars- ostensibly more for drinks and is aimed at the backpacker community. In a sense, that was the only disappointing aspect in the islands since we expected more indigenous fare as well. There are loads of places to eat with merry people for company. An Australian baker has set up shop there and his stuff sells like hot cakes, literally!
The Lao people are genuinely friendly and welcome you readily. Many of them are most enthusiastic about sharing a beer in the evenings. Beerlao is an institution among the locals – it was declared the best beer in Asia by TIME in 2004 and there's only one way of finding out why it’s held in such high esteem!
To connoisseurs of coffee, Lao will be paradise. It might come as a surprise that it is usually served with a dollop of condensed milk but once one tastes it, it is magical. Medium bodied and with a hint of a chocolate sweet taste, it is perfect. Without a doubt, sampling coffee in Lao would be akin to tasting wines in the Mediterranean.
Traditionally, Lao coffee comes from cool climes of the Bolaven plateau, which is an off-the-beaten-track travelers' haven as well. Another unique Lao custom is serving green tea after the coffee. Very refreshing! Lao offers enough variety of locally brewed alcohol. However, the options are limited on the islands. But people and high spirits are never at a premium here! Most people land up in the islands thinking they’ll wait for a few days – this becomes a week, then a month and so on … there is no meaning of time here. This may sometimes be annoyingly reflected in the time taken to prepare food, but it’s a wonderful unhurried feeling. It really is an idyllic setting.
Though commercial establishments are cropping up fast, it still is a good time to be here. There aren’t too many adventure sports but the abundance of trekking area and the pristine beauty of the islands and the Mekong are a delight to the senses. There are fair numbers of cascades and small waterfalls, and beaches to be explored. The biggest cascade in SE Asia is one of the local attractions and is a raging rapid in high season.
Hiring a local boat to spot the rare Irrawaddy dolphin is another popular activity. Fishing is a wonderful pastime and one is rarely disappointed with the catch. It is a wonderful sight to see the Lao fishermen casting their nets while precariously balanced on rocks overhanging the river.
Even without carrying a load, it wasn't easy to clamber up and down steep rock overhanging the churning waters, so to pull it off with big hauls in tow is really something else. The beaches are fairly rocky in parts so footwear is useful. Flora and fauna enthusiasts need no second invitation to come here. Both Don Det and Don Khon offer lovely cycling trails. The sport of Katow – foot volleyball played with a locally made ball, similar to the Thai form Takro, is popular among the Lao men in the evenings. It is fascinating to watch, as the acrobatics and pirouettes they execute in getting the ball over the net are quite striking. Internet, though expensive, is available as are phone lines. Laundry facilities are in plenty too.
Finally, and not without an exemplary display of will power, leaving the islands is arranged for by bus operators. Again, if the slow schedules of the bus are a bother, it is possible to rent motorbikes and travel through. This is really the ideal way to go about, though having said that, traveling by the local buses offers fascinating insights into the local culture and is an eye-opening culinary experience for the brave hearted! Hitchhiking also offers interesting possibilities for those with more time on their hands and would be a terrific way of exploring this heartwarming country.
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